I missed the colour spray, but caught the golds

High Hopes

We all had big expectations for the morning surf conditions. At 5:30 am the beach was littered with frothers, eagerly hunting a solo peak. Unfortunately, the 6:39 am high tide swallowed the swell increase, producing fat burger waves that provided little enjoyment. Land of the cutback! I know there was some colour at 5:30 am, […]

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Lying down on the job - Zach

Bueno

Looking the goods out there today. It started dark and cloudy but has now blossomed into a corker. The waves turned on for the morning session too. Three-footers galore, lovely bowls on the inside, and a massive rip kept the lineup beginner-free. We’re heating up to a very comfortable 25 degrees, go outside, it’s magnificent. […]

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Tints at Tama, 6am

South

After a colourful sunrise at Tamarama, I took a short drive south to The Bra and found some clean little waves (2-3ft). The higher tide made it a little fat, but surfable. Lots of cutbacks. The sun was out, and it’s been a dry day. The groms were dominating, whilst the beach was pretty empty […]

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Harry inside pop, Bondi

Increase

OK, OK, I might have got a little excited yesterday calling 8 foot today, but it has come up a lot – say 4 foot. That’s double head high for the little tykes at least. It’s plenty for the adults too – especially when all the groms are at school – yeeeehaw. Sunshine galore and […]

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Jetty, morning finner, Bondi 7:20am

24hours

It’s incredible what a difference 24 hours makes in the ocean. Yesterday, it was unsurfable and thundering into the bay, bouncing off the back walls. Today, it’s completely dropped off and only 3 foot – how good! Nice clean offshores grooming the multiple Bondi peaks. Large crowds up early, tackling the cooler mornings. It will […]

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Cavity glow, Bondi circa 7am today

Little Monsters

The swell has slipped a few gears, and the little tykes dominated the south peak. The low tides made it tricky, but the groms tucked in. It’s only 2-3 feet and clean at sunrise. It was a cold morning, with only 8 degrees on the mercury. The wind was particularly brutal, but the brine was […]

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Peekaboo with Willie, under the thick lip. Bondi 7am

Curvature

Autumn in Sydney never fails us, a constant supply of swell and some really curving water at South Bondi. Sets broke over head high, crowds were hungry and the water reasonably warm for this time of year. The day began dark under threatening dark skies, but at 9 a.m., it cleared for a glorious sunny […]

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The stage is set, big weekend coming up in Bondi

Grande

Bondi is gearing up for a party this weekend as 15,000 people hit the beach for the annual Pride party. This morning was a good prelude as the beach was absolutely packed at 6 am. I overheard a British tourist say, “What on earth is going on geezer? I mean, it’s 6am; why is everyone […]

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34 degrees yesterday and Sydney hit the beach. Bronte around midday

Busy-Busy

Yesterday was a busy beach day around Sydney, soaking up mid-thirties and leftovers from Saturday’s giant swell. It was huge, wasn’t it? See my IG stories for some waves at Ben Buckler. Today, the swell has dropped a couple of gears, and we have chest-high, lumpy surf. This morning, it looks tricky at Bondi, fat […]

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Lip strike, 6:20am

Excursion

I took the mini-froth-lords on an excursion to an east-facing beach – hoping for bigger waves and less crowd. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! We discovered 3-4 foot bowls amongst an early (chaotic) crowd. I always thought Bondi was the pinnacle of surfing chaos – we’re not alone! NW winds and plenty […]

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Door to door on my street - the man hunt - yesterday

Bondi Manhunt

Never a dull moment around Bondi. Yesterday arvo, whilst cooking my famous Beef Boganoff (Fusion edition), the police surrounded our houses along the street. I thought it must be the alluring scent of my culinary genius bellowing onto the road (again)—like when you wander past Belle’s chicken. MMMmmmmm. The POLAIR helicopter then parked directly above […]

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Ed Ryall, dancing on the lip before popping out a finbox

Clean

Finally, it’s gone offshore and there’s treats down the beach. Bondi was super fun at sunrise, with twin peaks feeding off a solid rip. Swimming with a camera was good exercise! Plenty of loops. How big? Shoulder with a few rare bombs overhead high. Crowds? Nah, not busy really for Bondi. Sun? Ah-huh. Yeah baby. […]

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The sun is back, the surf is fun and it's good times

Overflow

This week is kicking off in glorious spring fashion – waves, gentle winds and sunny skies. So good! I spent the morning swimming with my camera at South Bondi. It was great exercise, swimming against the ridiculously strong rip, but was tough to sync up with crew to shoot. My method: simply jag a shot […]

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