Cabin Fever
How are you all doing out there? Strange times, and it seems to be only getting stranger. We now live in a world of homeschooling, quarantine cops, face masks, cabin-fever and closed beaches. It’s flat out weird (I know), but we will get through it, together. You’re probably not surfing, but it’s something we can […]
Ombak Tidur
Ombak tidur…the waves have gone to sleep. We’re up here in Mentawais awaiting an inbound swell. Usually, in May, we cop a heap of big surf that is fed by the storms down below Western Australia in The Roaring 40s. The swell charts show promise and the boys on the boat are getting’ twitchy. We’ve had […]
Telos
Hi. I’m in Indonesia for my annual surf-infused junket and loving it! We’re surfing the dregs of that swell that hit Bali for the WSL finals, and I won’t lie, it’s now small. When it’s small you can hit the exposed beaches which seem to always have a head high wave…and they’re so hollow. Not […]
