Calmness
Hurro. It’s cool, calm and waveless. AKA Lake Bondi. Good for a (brief) swim, a walk, a few photos…then something productive. (AKA work) Pretty quiet in the swell department for this time of year. Tiny all week long. There’s a big south storm brewing for Monday. Looks very windy. Maybe that will bring a few waves […]
Bondi Storm
Today’s storm was giving me a bit of a hard time on my morning dawdle. The rain was intermittent, winds were howling onshore 20-30 knots. The beach was pretty empty – the surf was terrible. It will be like this for a couple of days so hang in there and be productive. If there is […]
Lagoon
Lagoons form around islands like Moorea as the volcanic landmass subsides into the ocean (over millions of years), leaving a coral outer ring – hence creating beautiful lagoons. It’s a slow but very fruitful process. The lagoons are full of marine life and sheltered from the pumping swells on the outer reefs. Moorea gets a […]
Moorea
Maeva to Moorea. This mind-blowing aquatic paradise is a short 30-minute ferry ride from the Tahitian capital of Papeete. The colours are crazy. You’d really like it here. The water is warm, clear, and ultra inviting. The vibe extremely mellow. The scenery is truly amazing with huge volcanic peaks towering over the beaches. It’s only […]
Teahupoo
When you mention the word ‘Teahupoo’ it puts fear into the minds of every surfer. It is the heaviest wave in the world full stop. You’ve all seen the photos of death slabs draining off the shallow reef. It’s your worst nightmare or a heavenly utopia to a rare few. The name ‘Teahupo’o’ loosely translates to […]
Patience
You could have driven past the beach this morning, had a glance and kept driving on to work, thinking you’ve missed nothing. If you sat and watched it for 30 minutes you’d realise there were infrequent, rideable, but fun fat sets every now and then. Some 2 foot, some even 3 foot…you just had to […]
Salty
Not the best morning for taking photographs. The rain seemed to follow me and my lenses around. Nice left in the corner though – albeit much smaller than previous days. The left had a little consistent bowl, good if you’re a really small human. Oh yeah, real cold out there too! I saw a few […]
FAT
Full as a boot out there today. 1.8 metres of fat at 7am high tide. Swell has hung in there with waves breaking 3-4 foot, but they’re all porked up. I would wait for the low tide. Slight onshore winds now, currently Easterly, but later 5-10 knots of North Easterly forecasted. Don’t expect much on […]
Poolside
A little 2-3 footer was breaking in the southern corner of Bondi, in front of The Icebergs, short-lived though…as a 15-20 knot Easterly made a mess of things early today. Large crew out early enjoying the shallow sand bank that is throwing a lip (rare), making the head dip the manoeuvre of choice. Not much […]
Colour Select
Big storm rolling through at the moment. Ocean is all frothed up with howling onshores, rain and a big ENE swell. It’s going to get really big tonight/ tomorrow – say 8 foot +, but it’s not going to be clean. 20-30 knots of blow today and tomorrow – so best wait until it dies […]
