Chocolate Slabs
I did little research before coming out to remote Papua New Guinea for a surf mission. Actually, I did try, but there’s not much information on the place. The swell forecast charts showed endless days of 0.5m (knee-high waves), so I presumed we’d be fishing or snorkelling for most of our time. I was pretty […]
Nugg Farm
Yesterday’s gale has subsided, and clean conditions prevail. Bondi had a few peaks in operation, but I favoured a little left-rip bowl, throwing out the odd 1-foot nugget. It was a glorious morning with mostly clear skies. Twenty-eight degrees forecasted, and it will only get hotter – Saturday will be a steamer at thirty eight! […]
The Skanky Port
A port is a part of my water housing that allows me to shoot in the brine. You have different ports to match your lenses. Over the years, I’ve shot with dozens of lenses whilst swimming. Today, I swam out with an old port from the back of the cupboard, and it had all kinds […]
Excursion
I took the mini-froth-lords on an excursion to an east-facing beach – hoping for bigger waves and less crowd. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! We discovered 3-4 foot bowls amongst an early (chaotic) crowd. I always thought Bondi was the pinnacle of surfing chaos – we’re not alone! NW winds and plenty […]
Grom Fodder
The groms rated today a 2 out of 10 but still paddled out. I love their positive attitudes. They always come in saying “got barrelled”, even when it’s barely breaking. So good. I saw waves break around head-high with onshore junk. East winds are no good around here. It’s going to rain over the next […]
Bondi Manhunt
Never a dull moment around Bondi. Yesterday arvo, whilst cooking my famous Beef Boganoff (Fusion edition), the police surrounded our houses along the street. I thought it must be the alluring scent of my culinary genius bellowing onto the road (again)—like when you wander past Belle’s chicken. MMMmmmmm. The POLAIR helicopter then parked directly above […]
Onshore Flow
It blew onshore early. That didn’t deter the masses from an early start, probably making up for yesterday. It’s incredible how many people are down the beach before I get there! Waves are much smaller today (and weak). Unless you’re 25 k-gees, I’ll give it a miss. The following five days look small – so […]
Bondi Active
Gosh, it’s been busy around Bondi lately. The weather on the weekend was A1 – seducing so many people for a swim or surf. I know, I know…at 5:30 am the skies blew up into pinks. I missed a cracker. I only missed it by a few minutes; please forgive me. I’m still slapping myself. […]
Bondi Magic
Bondi is famous for its busy-day postcards. If you mention Bondi to anyone overseas, they ask, “Is that the crazy busy beach with the TV show?”. Ah-huh. Yeah, it’s busy down here, but not all the time. Like today – it’s empty, onshore and conducive to office work (and photos taken on better days). The […]
Long Interval
With a 12-second mid-long period south swell in town, it’s looking very straight down the beach. Virtually unsurfable. It’s such a shame. It’s big, but we have nothing for it to break on. Don’t turn your back on the ocean today. You’ll go in for a dip thinking she’s flat as, but then a 4-6 […]
Clean
Finally, it’s gone offshore and there’s treats down the beach. Bondi was super fun at sunrise, with twin peaks feeding off a solid rip. Swimming with a camera was good exercise! Plenty of loops. How big? Shoulder with a few rare bombs overhead high. Crowds? Nah, not busy really for Bondi. Sun? Ah-huh. Yeah baby. […]
eGress
Bondi Beach was busting at the seams over the weekend with activity. Wow, there was so much going on – I was glad to see a quiet, rainy beach day today to give it a break. So what did you miss? The Australian Open of Surfing finals were held at Bondi yesterday in the worst […]
Pockets
It’s quite tiny but surfable. A shallow bank was putting on some pockets for the mini-humans to stab. Not much above chest high. It was clean, dark and cloudy earlier, but that cleared by around 7ish. 27 degrees today, yeah! The Australian Open of Surfing – Better Beer Open: Grand Finals are being held on our […]
