Bashing into the wind, Campsites, Oakura, Taranaki

The Surf Highway

State Highway 45 around Taranaki is dubbed ‘The Surf Highway’ due to the vast number of surf breaks wrapping this corner of the North Island. I can see that with the right conditions there is 100 km’s of coastline to surf…most probably on your own. I’ve got a nasty south-west gale terrorizing the area today, […]

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Matt Pearson tucked inside tightly into this Bondi wedgey

#Goodtimes

To begin our daily chat today I have a video from my most recent trip, Nihiwatu (Sumba Indonesia). WATCH NOW (hey, it’s only 2 mins, if you think you don’t have time to watch a 2 min vid then you need a holiday!) Proper good times this morning. The swell has kicked around to the […]

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Tombstones, Bondi Beach Australia

Tombstones

After a really cold start, things are starting to warm up. The winds are frosty offshore, it’s SO much warmer in the water than it is out. It felt like a bath. There is a right-hand rip bowl at South Bondi. It’s only 2 foot and heaps of water running out, so maintaining a relevant […]

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Adrian Shortland snug inside, Mentawais

Indo Magic

I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]

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Monday

Mondays are a favourite. The weekend’s crowds have dispersed, the beach is quiet. Monday’s are even better with waves (4-5 foot)! So many options today with a East swell. Empty line ups everywhere. Head to your local beach and there will be something for ya. :: uge

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Doom

Look out the window. You see it? Sunshine! Yeah, right now it’s here and the thick storm clouds have pushed on. Enjoy it. It’s not gonna last as more cloud will return this arvo. BUT, tomorrow, well that’s a new day. 27 degrees, fine and sunny – BOOM! Hit the beach. I’m packing the family […]

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Rip-able

Every day I wake up in hope for good light and waves. Sydney is pretty special in that you can surf something, most days. It doesn’t crank as much as other places in the world but it sure is pretty consistent for some sort of water activity. Bondi had a little wave on this morning. […]

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Bbrr

Cold – ain’t it just? Very different to the last few days weeks months. ‘Grey’ and ‘drizzle’ – two words to best describe what I saw down the beach this morning. Gonna get even colder tomorrow. Ah-huh. I bet you didn’t get out from under the covers until it was in the 7’s. A good […]

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Inbound

There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]

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Fresh Poke

It’s been really stormy here in Hawaii. I know, I know these pictures depict glorious sunny days. Well…I shot these a few days ago…but it can be stormy on the North Shore and crystal blue and sunny on the East Coast. The island of Oahu can be a little fickle with the weather, especially seeing […]

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A F T E R

Aloha. Yesterday was a very strange day here on the North Shore of Oahu. It was busy. I’m talking as busy as a Pipeline Masters final. The Kam Highway was broken – 2 hours to Halewia from Pipe (normally 15 minutes). Thousands of people did the 45 minute schlep from Honolulu to see the rumoured […]

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E a s t F e a s t

Today is the smallest day to surf for the week. There is a residual East swell in town and Maroubra was bleeding it dry. I saw sets around chest high at the Bra…looked fun but inconsistent. Of course I have to say this…the weather has been incredible…so warm for this time of year and the […]

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8 E I G H T

It was a bit chilly down there this morning. A lucky 8 degrees. The water was a welcome reprieve…being much warmer than the air. There is a small wave on offer, waist to inconsistent chest high. Shallow bank in the south end has the most joy. The forecast for the weekend looks sunny and small…maybe […]

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