Boom. Just like that the sky caught on fire. Phase 2, circa 6:30am

Crop Dusting

Hi. Hello. How are you? Remember me? I know, I know. This ‘daily’ photo email thing seems to be a little erratic, a little irregular and a whole lot not daily. I can explain… As of today, I can officially pilot an under 25-kilo RPA (remotely piloted aircraft). It took me all week to get […]

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Clean roller, South Bondaka, 7:30am

Darko

The swell has subsided, and the new bank setup has been revealed. There’s a nice gutter towards the middle, but the rest looks straight. 2-3 foot waves, clean conditions with offshore winds. Small crowds due to cold conditions. Dark morning, overcast skies…tough shooting conditions! Have a great weekend. Big surf on Sunday! :: uge

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It's big today (and cold)

Spike

The swell has come right up, and the mercury right down. There are waves in the 6-8 foot range and only a hand full of crew braving the uncomfortable conditions. It was around 4 degrees before sunrise, and the wind chill bit deep. WNW winds at 10 knots are keeping it neat. It’s pretty mind-blowing […]

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Drainer at sunrise, Bondi

Frosty Drainers

Geez, it was a chilly start to the day (9), especially before sunrise (sub 9). At Bondi, you’d think it’s peak summer as a few guys paddle out in their boardies, chatting with me like it’s a balmy summer morning. At sunrise, chest-high waves and its offshore – onshore now with that annoying southerly blowing. […]

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14 July 2023, Creeping da nose. Cabarita

Coastal Warmth

I’m not much of a longboarder, but I love shooting pics of the legropeless maniacs. It’s graceful, slower and more predictable than short boarding – kinda like a dance. It also doesn’t matter if it’s 0.5ft or 10ft – they always catch waves. Far Northern NSW is a longboarders haven, with dribbly points spinning off […]

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Good to see more swell this morning.

The Points

The southerly is blowing up here (Far North NSW), so you’ll need to find a point for protection. There’s slightly more swell today, but it remains small and suitable for large surf craft. Waist to shoulder high. Yet another glorious winter sunny day with warm temps – lucky, aren’t we? Max 22. The waiting period […]

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North NSW/QLD has plenty of point lineups, like this.

North

I prefer north to south, particularly in winter when it’s warmer. Yesterday it was 24.5 degrees up here on the far north coast, and it felt like summer. The mornings are cool, but the middle of the day is glorious. We’ve left Port Mac and driven closer to the QLD border where the waves are […]

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Pinkie skies over the Lifeguard tower, Bondi this morning

Swell pulse

Geez, Bondi is quiet. So many have left for Europe. We’ve got a little pulse in the south swell, and Bondi had a wave in the shoulder to the head-high range. The banks are a little funky, and Jetty reckons it wasn’t worthy. WSW winds are keeping it frosty, especially exiting the water. The new […]

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Glorious winter sunshine, not so glorious winter swells though.

Monday Chills

How many small, flat days we’ve had this winter is incredible. It starkly contrasts the everyday cooking waves of our recent Autumn. (In my mind, it was one of the best Autumns). Today it’s knee-high and very slow. You’ll need a very positive attitude, a longboard over 9 feet long and plenty of patience to […]

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Frothin' grom, Noah Bowler shredding

Dim.

Now that we’ve passed the winter solstice, the year’s shortest day is behind us. It’s allllll gravy from here, folks. The mornings will be brighter, the days longer and 4-6 foot daily. Ok, maybe the last part is a lie. This morning it was incredibly dark, hard for me to shoot. The swell has plummeted, and three […]

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Fraser Dovell thinking this is warm compared to Kamchatka

Hit’n’Miss

It’s a little odd today. Whilst I saw some cracker waves I also saw a lot of close-out junk. Needless to say, my morning swim was brisk. Submerged in the brine you’re fine, but the dash up the road into the morning offshore winds is torturous. The waves have slipped gears, it’s only shoulder high. […]

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Dawn carves, Bondi 6:20am

Cryogenics

After being in the tropics recently, it takes a little adjusting (yes, still) to swim presunrise. I’m a wuss in the cold; I reckon something to do with my heritage from the equator. I will say, a cold morning swim will always kickstart you into top gear and fill you full of energy. Overnight we […]

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Not often do you see Bondi this flat. 7am

Decumbent

It is so rare for Bondi to be this flat, swell-less and calm. Typically there’s always something moving. Not today. It’s cool, though; 18-26 knots of chilling westerlies will ensure you’ll keep your jumper on for most of today—beautiful clear skies to match. Finally, Thredbo is a mountain of white after a late start to […]

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