Last Day of Winter
It’s pretty puuuuuurfect right now – especially for the last day of winter. Sunshine for days, winds are non-existent, water is glassy and there’s a tiny 1 footer up north for beginners, longboarders and groms. It’s a family affair today – by that I mean my whole family was out there getting their wave quotas […]
Helios
THE SUN IS OUT – HIT THE BEACH! Helios the Greek sun god is being kind to us! A mighty fine morning down the beach. Yeah, it’s cold, it’s August still, but hell – a swim will bust you into a new mood – very invigorating! The water feels about 16-17 and today the mercury […]
Sir Branson
You know it, always something going on down Bondi beach and this morning was no exception. Sir Richard Branson visited our shores at sunrise this morning. The last time I shot Sir Branson at Bondi was in 2004 when he was dangling out of a helicopter! (see AB post) Today was a lot more subdued […]
Bunnies
Bronte Reef (AKA Bunnies) had a few sloppy head high waves this morning. A couple of adventurous souls out in the darkness, hunting, waiting optimistically. Winds are ESE 11 knots (onshore basically everywhere)…it’s not really a beach day! Sit back, relax, grab a cuppa, maybe watch a few of my mini films from better times. Check […]
The Bush
I’ve been out to the Mentawais 17 times now on these boats. Why? The surf is amazing. Full stop. For consistency and diversity of waves, I can’t think of another destination that compares. Admittedly, it’s not for every surfer, most waves are breaking on sharp shallow reefs and offer dreamy tubes…but it can get dangerous […]
Keyser’s
We’re up in the Mentawais, a group of islands off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. Plenty of swell and the islands have been lighting up. After surfing 7 different breaks in 48 hours we opted for a slow session at a beach break away from the crowds. It turned on nicely. No official name for […]
Variable
The winds have gone light, and swell magnets are starting to fire. (In Mentawai Islands that is). Mentawais are an archipelago of surf rich islands that hug the south coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. The area is famous for its barrels, as nearly all waves are on shallow coral reefs. People come from all over the globe […]
Surfable
Yo. It’s surfable today. 2-3 foot. Fat with the morning high tide then slapping on the beach. The southern corner had a shorey with attitude. Nothing like a spin cycle before work! Oh hang on, that’s work. Not much wind around this morning but it still looked agitated. The arvo NE wind will bring back […]
Hello
This morning I went for my routine swim to assess the surf and water conditions for you. It was real pretty at 6:45am…some amazing colours scattered across the skies. The water was warm and semi-clear. The waves were a small, 1-2 foot and lacking substance. Swell arrives tomorrow…phew. I spent 30 minutes chasing string rays, […]
Fresh Poke
It’s been really stormy here in Hawaii. I know, I know these pictures depict glorious sunny days. Well…I shot these a few days ago…but it can be stormy on the North Shore and crystal blue and sunny on the East Coast. The island of Oahu can be a little fickle with the weather, especially seeing […]
S T A N D A R D
These very good looking mornings are becoming the standard, the expected. Day after day I roll down the beach and it’s really quite something special. We are being spoilt. No wind, amazing sunrises and clear skies. It’s going to hit a whopping 24 degrees today. That’s pretty crazy for this time of year. The swell […]
8 E I G H T
It was a bit chilly down there this morning. A lucky 8 degrees. The water was a welcome reprieve…being much warmer than the air. There is a small wave on offer, waist to inconsistent chest high. Shallow bank in the south end has the most joy. The forecast for the weekend looks sunny and small…maybe […]
M A N L Y
That ‘booming’ new ENE swell still hasn’t arrived properly…yet. It’s coming though. With the majority of the swell energy neglecting south facing Bondi I woke early to cross the ditch to Manly Town. Manly faces NE drawing in every bit of this swell direction. Waves broke around head high but with an incoming tide was […]