Lil’ Bumps
Our fantastic run of swell has come to an end, and today’s swell is smaller yet still surfable. Clean conditions at sunrise under very dark, cloudy skies. A massive pack of hungry 20-30 kilo groms out, feasting on anything moving into the bay. The little ones have such a good time in the water – […]
Wet-Wetties
Nothing is worse than donning a wet wettie in the dark before sunrise. This persistent nemesis onshore rain pattern seems stuck over Sydney – and won’t push offshore. Nonetheless, there are plenty of waves this morning in the chest to occasionally head wide variety. Huge pack of groms up early, feasting before school. Currently, the wind is holding off […]
South Chump Change
As I write this, a south change is moving from stage right. It’s bringing wind and waves – lots of wind. Tonight expect SSW 30 knots plus. The wave energy will ramp, and tomorrow, you’ll see conditions similar to last Saturday’s 8-footers. It will be very messy with all that wind, but interesting nonetheless. Have […]
Last day of Summer
It’s the last day of summer (boo!), and we’re finishing it in stereotypical fashion – NE winds, 35 degrees and a tiny swell. It was a super warm morning with a MASSIVE sunrise crowd. So many people from overseas enjoying the morning vibes. Morning low tides created a little exposed sandbar, good for swimmers and […]
Glorious
It’s one helluva beautiful day outside in Sydney. The sun rose, unhindered by horizon cloud, and blanketed Bondi all morning. Vast numbers of people were up early, enjoying sunrise – it was crazy. Today’s ENE swell is small and mainly missing Bondi. Spike reckons it was 1-2 feet, which is practically overhead high for the […]
Back in the hood!
Bondi’s an intense joint, so I love stepping away from it for a few weeks over the summer. I put the cameras & phones away and then focus on my forehand grinds (and family time). As of today – I AM BACK. Fresh eyes on a familiar subject, crazy Bondi. My 25th year. What a […]
The Skanky Port
A port is a part of my water housing that allows me to shoot in the brine. You have different ports to match your lenses. Over the years, I’ve shot with dozens of lenses whilst swimming. Today, I swam out with an old port from the back of the cupboard, and it had all kinds […]
Excursion
I took the mini-froth-lords on an excursion to an east-facing beach – hoping for bigger waves and less crowd. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! We discovered 3-4 foot bowls amongst an early (chaotic) crowd. I always thought Bondi was the pinnacle of surfing chaos – we’re not alone! NW winds and plenty […]
Grom Fodder
The groms rated today a 2 out of 10 but still paddled out. I love their positive attitudes. They always come in saying “got barrelled”, even when it’s barely breaking. So good. I saw waves break around head-high with onshore junk. East winds are no good around here. It’s going to rain over the next […]
Pockets
It’s quite tiny but surfable. A shallow bank was putting on some pockets for the mini-humans to stab. Not much above chest high. It was clean, dark and cloudy earlier, but that cleared by around 7ish. 27 degrees today, yeah! The Australian Open of Surfing – Better Beer Open: Grand Finals are being held on our […]
Wide in the Brine
Go for a swim, surf, before your Cup lunch. It’s sublime down the beach. Currently, light winds, glassy conditions and a forecast of 25 on the mercury. Waves are bigger than yesterday, yet still small. (1-2 ft). There’s something special when your family is out in the water with you, sharing the ocean. When these […]
Halloween
The swell spiked up strong this morning from the east, just in time for Halloween. I was surprised to see the odd four-footer out there; nonetheless, it was offshore earlier & fun! Bondi had a few peaks running. The recent big swell pounding didn’t ruin our banks – good. Early strong SW wind will swing […]
Groms and Sculptures
I don’t recall a time in my decades of shooting Bondi that so many youngsters are going hard, day in and day out. Not just saying that as a couple of them are mine. A few years ago, I’d struggle to find anyone surfing Bondi that wasn’t on a 100-litre softie going dead straight on […]
