Chalk
I caught up with big wave legend Marky ‘Chalkie’ Matthews this morning. He’s been seriously injured (twice) over the past two years. His nickname ‘Chalk’ is in reference to his brittle bones that often break when you’re surfing 20 foot slabs of death. His last fall was at a nasty south coast slab that drilled […]
Mick
I was down the beach with Mick today. The biggest name in surfing right now as he’s looking down the barrel of a 4th world title…yes, four! Mick and I have a lot in common… Mick EUGENE Fanning. Top name. Mick is a ambassador for the primo german vehicles – Audi. Same same. Mick spent […]
Inbound
There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]
On-shaw
The onshore winds chewed up the remnants of the NE swell this morning. It looked real messy but fun all at the same time. If you find a gap in your day, paddle out before it fades. Our Christmas madness gallery artwork deadlines are looming. Get in before this Sunday 6pm or you’ll miss the […]
Shoreline
All the recent bulldozing seems to have changed our sand bank setup at Bondi. No surprises there. So far I would say the recent renovations have been a improvement. Agree? The waves seem to be breaking close to shore. I prefer that. Then you don’t have that gaping hole in the middle where you flap […]
Beach News
Hey Honks. Sorry about the late update. I would like to say I’ve been surfing…as it looks pretty good out there. But nah, no such luck yet. Chained to the desk. The left has fired up in the corner and there are some 3 maybe 4 footers available for your riding pleasure. It’s 23 degrees, […]
Wash Out
This morning was a complete wash out. It was pouring. The surf was 1-2 foot and onshore – real ugly stuff. I actually thought it was unsurfable. A few optimistic crew out in the middle waiting for something…good day to do some work. Today’s photos are completely random, last summer, last big swell…stuff like that. […]
Beach People
I’ve written around 4,000 daily posts on Aquabumps over the past 15 years. That’s a lot of writing for a guy who got a C+ in English at school (I wasn’t big on school and spent most of my time wagging class to hide in the darkroom). Sometimes coming up with something to write about […]
E X H A L E
It was all nice and glassy down the beach this morning. A fog entered the bay around 7:00am and there was a cruisy, well-formed right hander tucked away in the Icebergs corner (with only 3 on it). I swam out there and snapped a few. It was real nice. By 12pm it will blow a […]
L a B r a
The conditions flipped and it seems most Bondi surfers headed to Maroubra this morning to reap the benefits. Good move if you did. Some fun ones out there in a weak NE wind swell. I saw a wave break overhead high! Just one. The winds are quite strong and from the SW. Protected corners essential. […]
D – B O W L
Good times to be had down the beach, the sunshine is back with plenty of south swell. Today I chose to shoot Maroubra as the banks at Bondi were a little patchy, plenty of waves in the North corner (with a big crew to match). I reckon Bondi was bigger though – with some sets […]
P O N D
Damn flat down at ‘The Pond’ this morning. AKA Pond-I (thanks Evan). The ocean was exhausted by yesterday’s howling winds and there wasn’t a ripple to ride this morning at 6am. Fortunately this flatness will be short lived as a new south swell kicks into gear – just about now (I look at my watch […]
D A I L Y F I X
I like today. Not for its surfing prowess as there are NO waves. More for its warmth and clear skies. It’s a corker and it’s gonna hit 30. Tools down. Hit the beach. You deserve it. Swell should arrive tomorrow. South. Boom. :: u g e
