Wet

It’s small here in Hawaii, like Bondi today…but a thumper is on the way tomorrow. That’s exciting. Wish we had all this swell in our summer. Smaller conditions meant I could swim around underwater; early…most people don’t get to the beach before 9am here. Very different to Bondi (keep in mind it is winter here, […]

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Crossover

It’s a little small yet surfable this morning. Remnants of a couple swells are putting on the odd shoulder high wave at Bondi. The sun is trying to fight its way through scattered clouds as it heats up to a mild 23 degrees. The onshore SE winds will swing around to the NE later today […]

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Crumbs

It’s quite the ugly day outside. I’m digging deep to give you the positive spin. My new garden is loving the rain but the boards are tucked up snug in the board bags. Waves are ankle to knee high and junk. Worst I’ve seen in weeks. Swell is coming though. Next Tuesday looks BIG. Hard […]

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Fryday

Just too good down there this morning. The light, the warmth and them little shoulder high waves at Maroubra. Hard to drag yourself away from it… 29 degrees now. The best. Tomorrow looks amazing – hit the beach or come to the Aquabumps Gallery. With crazy rides and giant slides, homemade cakes and homegrown preserves, […]

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Bank Magic

If I could make a template of a day and duplicate it many times, it would be today. The sun is out and spring is in the air. The waves are good, some above your head and even tubing on the odd occasion. Bit smaller tomorrow, but fun. We’re in for a busy weekend :: […]

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Benvenuta Primavera

This week marks the start of spring…and hasn’t it lived up to our expectations. Today is yet another perfectly sunny, salubrious spring day. The promenade at Bondi was packed by 6:30am with joggers, dawdlers, yogies, swimmers and 4 surfers. In true spring fashion, the waves were tiny. Gone are the monster winter swells and here […]

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Junior burgers

The Billabong World Pro Juniors is on today (Men’s round 3 and Women’s finals). So I’d thought I’d head up to North Narrabeen to see what’s happening. It’s onshore over there like our side of the bridge, damn easterly – the worst wind, which has been hanging around Sydney all week. Northy had a small […]

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FAQ

Hi there. We’re still in the islands. Get a lot of questions on email so I’d thought I’d do a Q+A special: How long are we in Mentawais? Back in 1 week, half way thru a 12 day charter around the islands. I like it here. Big swell hittin’ here soon. Why? Good waves – […]

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Jungle Feeva

Uge has taken the bold move of inviting me to write today’s update. I’m standing in the wheel house of the Tengirri after just surfing perfect 3 foot rights at “burger world” on day 4 of our boat charter. Here’s how you really know you’re on a boat trip… You’re taking more naps during the […]

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The year that was…

Well that’s it for another year. This is our last communication until 2010. Thanks for reading this salt crusted update from the beach…I still can’t believe there are so many of you interested in it as I’ve never marketed it – you just came by or a mate stuck you on it. What started out […]

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Copy > paste

Yet another sensational sunny, warm morning welcoming the new season. The dead south swell has hung in there and Bondi is flaunting fun little peaks (2 footers). Most other beaches wouldn’t be showing much, maybe Curly would be the best bet over the Northern Biatches. I suspect these conditions will maintain for another 24hrs before […]

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