Monday’s ramble
Considering the charts were showing a 1 foot prediction this morning it’s actually OK down there. I mean you can catch waves, kinda go along the face and do something (once). It’s weak, pretty wonky and overcast – but there ain’t many humans out. Max 20 degrees today, offshore all day and should get cleaner […]
Contradictions
Looking at the swell charts earlier this week I wouldn’t have thought it would be this good today. The swell was meant to decline rapidly from yesterday, leaving us with 2 footers this morning. But nah, it’s 4-5 foot, clean and some fun empty ones pumping into our bay. The winds are a perfect W/NW […]
The Indian blue
There’s not much between the Mentawai Islands and the bottom of this planet – just a massive expanse of Indian Ocean between Australia and Africa. This absence of land mass keeps the surf rich waters around these islands crispy blue clear…perfect for a day’s swimming around with your camera. The surf has been good – […]
Windows
Well it’s been quite a different trip to the Mentawais this year. There has been plenty of smoking waves to be had…I should mention…in amongst the rain and howling southerly gusts. In 1 day the weather has been changing so much – you just don’t know what to expect. Some breaks have been on just […]
Tsunami
Yesterday I surfed for around 7 hours – I can barely lift my arms now (yep, it was that good). The swell arrived and some really fun 4 footers were on offer in the Mentawai Islands. Bit of trouble with flukey winds that blow for an hour, then glass off, then blow again. The sought […]