Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!

Thunders

May, June, July are usually the best months to come to the Mentawais for surfing. It’s when all the winter storms down near the roaring 40s, 50s and 60s kick in, dispersing swell in this direction. I won’t lie, this trip we’ve had a consistent run of 3-5 foot days and beautiful weather – nothing […]

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Santa Monica, this morning. Look pretty perfect.

Californification

The weather has kicked up a few gears here in California. The winds are calm and the skies clear. The beaches have become a hive of activity…film crews (many), muscle dudes, tightrope walkers, acro yogis, tourists, fill the beach parks. The water is seriously cold (remember it’s winter here), but some crew still going in […]

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