Aftermath
The 30-foot waves and 90-knot gusts have faded, and all is slowly returning back to normal on Oahu, Hawaii. Hell, we might even get a trade wind tomorrow. The island is in clean-up mode as they repair from one of the most ferocious storms I’ve witnessed. Some beaches will need time for the sand to […]
Off the Wall
I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]
Fresh Poke
It’s been really stormy here in Hawaii. I know, I know these pictures depict glorious sunny days. Well…I shot these a few days ago…but it can be stormy on the North Shore and crystal blue and sunny on the East Coast. The island of Oahu can be a little fickle with the weather, especially seeing […]
A F T E R
Aloha. Yesterday was a very strange day here on the North Shore of Oahu. It was busy. I’m talking as busy as a Pipeline Masters final. The Kam Highway was broken – 2 hours to Halewia from Pipe (normally 15 minutes). Thousands of people did the 45 minute schlep from Honolulu to see the rumoured […]
Shack Shaker
The big swell has arrived in Hawaii and I can hear water rushing under the house as I write this. Yep you read right, our shack is built on jetty piles and wash gets under the house and sometimes into the backyard. This doesn’t make for a good night’s rest with all the rumbling and […]
Wet
It’s small here in Hawaii, like Bondi today…but a thumper is on the way tomorrow. That’s exciting. Wish we had all this swell in our summer. Smaller conditions meant I could swim around underwater; early…most people don’t get to the beach before 9am here. Very different to Bondi (keep in mind it is winter here, […]
North Shore
Alooooha! Sorry about the radio silence. Just been taking it easy here in Hawaii. Y’know…bit of holidays, bit of shooting. The swell has been ridiculously big the past week. Haven’t seen a day less than 6 foot. Today it came up again and there are faces at Pipeline that are over 30 foot! The swell […]
Waikiki
As far as ugly mornings go, today’s a cracker. The surf is knee high onshore mush and it seems to be raining quite consistently. Taking photos of that pretty picture wasn’t high on my to do list. Instead I’d like to talk about Waikiki beach on the South Shore of Oahu. Waikiki is the main […]
Flashback
I went down the beach this morning and it wasn’t pretty. A strong southerly is here and it’s making a mess of things. The skies threaten rain and there’s barely anyone around (including surfers). Yesterday was your best option for this week. I shot some real bad images of mushy water, but I thought you’d […]
sayonara
Today’s first pic above sums up Hawaii for me. A nice crispy clean wide open barrel, warm water, tropical palm trees, huge mountains in the back ground, beautiful light…ah yes, there is nothing better than Hawaii. The only thing missing is the huge wolf pack at Pipe fighting for a set. This is a freak […]
Swim
Swimming at Pipe is one of my favourite things to do here. Even if you don’t surf or shoot, I recommend buying a pair of fins (Vipers or Da Fins) and swimming out into the lineup. It’s an amazing experience. You will see waves and surfing that will blow your mind. Banzai Pipeline from the […]
Waimea
Hey there. The trade winds are blowing down the throat of Pipeline barrels…the sun is out and the Volcom Pipe Pro is on LIVE right now. It was 12 foot plus at daybreak, but now it’s settling into the 8-12 foot range. That kinda swell only works in a few spots here in Hawaii… the […]
Maxed
Aloha…last night at 10pm it was 2 foot. Yep. Dos. The calm before the rogue storm. By midnight you could hear sets crumbling out the back. By sunrise it was 4-6 foot with 8 foot sets. At this point I took some photos…the Pipe Pro was called off as the forecast was showing an even […]