Goofy vs Natural
Fact: The best waves in Indonesia are usually lefts. It’s due to the physical orientation of Indonesia and how it relates to the South Westerly swell source. On a boat charter, there is a constant divide between the natural footers and goofys – we’ve got a 50-50 split this year and the wolf pack go […]
Keyser’s
We’re up in the Mentawais, a group of islands off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. Plenty of swell and the islands have been lighting up. After surfing 7 different breaks in 48 hours we opted for a slow session at a beach break away from the crowds. It turned on nicely. No official name for […]
Last Dance
I’ve been waiting for an ugly Bondi morning to showcase our last hurrah in Mentawais. Today’s it! After an unimpressive 10 seconds down at Bondi Beach this morning I resorted to a coffee and direct route to the gallery. In my quick beach scan, I saw a super junkie 3-foot rainy mess out there. Really not […]
Glass
Most nights in Mentawais it glasses off. Pure silk. Best time to surf. The land cools down and the coastal convection relaxes. Last night was pretty special…awesome colours and 4-6 foot waves. We surfed a break in the main part of Mentawais – in the Playgrounds region. I won’t lie – it’s busy. Land camps are […]
Below
Our Mentawai voyage is off to a slow start this year. That’s cool; it can’t pump every day here. An off day in The Ments is head high anyway…that eases the jolt from our training grounds; the Bondi Beach rip bowls to these hollow coral reef breaks. There is still plenty of other things to do […]