Darko
It was just one of those days where it’s not worth even opening the car door. The wind was blowing early, the rain has already set in, the swell was small and wind beaten…nothing on offer at all. (oh and it’s quite a bit cooler). I’d like to say something like ‘no matter it’s going […]
memories
As winter dominates today we have soggy 2-3 footers at Bondi. The SE winds are making a mess of it so you’ll have to surf somewhere with better protection. I sat in the car park for 30 minutes as it poured (and still is pouring), shooting some of the worst images I’ve taken in a […]
S O A K E D
The rain hasn’t stopped all morning making it difficult to shoot anything decent. Hence the flash back to last week’s Mentawai gold. If you like surfing Bondi @ 3-4 foot and with only a handful of guys, today is your day. Just excuse the drain water runoff and ugly skies. Winds will swing ESE later […]
Homeward Bound
I am well aware that reading these photo updates for the past 2 weeks may have been frustrating whilst you’re sitting in a cubicle, trawling Facebook (especially when Sydney has rain). Well, you’ll be glad to know our Mentawaian junket is now over and the Bondi updates will resume. Yep, charter boat Tengirri returns to […]
Bank Vaults
The anticipated swell has arrived and roared in, in true indo fashion. Bank Vaults lit up for a large crowd from the local resorts. (Yep, there are now resorts and camps up here.) Heavy waves at Bank Vaults (at 6 foot) – when you’re in, you’re locked in. Bank Vaults is also as shifty as […]
angin
Well, the waves have been consistently good and now we have a large inbound swell. BUT, the wind (“angin” in the local lang) is playing havoc. Storms are ripping through as intense lows grind along the west coast of Australia, smashing into the Mentawai Islands. Surf options are limited and we’re mainly hiding in coves […]
FAQ
Hi there. We’re still in the islands. Get a lot of questions on email so I’d thought I’d do a Q+A special: How long are we in Mentawais? Back in 1 week, half way thru a 12 day charter around the islands. I like it here. Big swell hittin’ here soon. Why? Good waves – […]
Jungle Feeva
Uge has taken the bold move of inviting me to write today’s update. I’m standing in the wheel house of the Tengirri after just surfing perfect 3 foot rights at “burger world” on day 4 of our boat charter. Here’s how you really know you’re on a boat trip… You’re taking more naps during the […]
Sempurna
Hi there. Hope the claws of winter haven’t dug deep in our absence… Over here it’s 30 degrees, glassy with 3-4 foot waves. Our boat has anchored up for the day against a remote left hander. A playful wave with a easy going take off and forgiving reef….(not like yesterday). It was a nice change […]
Black Magic
Another day of magic in the islands, similar to yesterday. At sunrise the right was 4 – 6 foot, ultra clean and tubing… (and dangerous). Our young gun Caleb Reid punted for the heavens wave after wave. Like a child in a candy store. One of the boys on the boat got tangled in the […]
Mentawais
Selmat Pagi. Welcome to the Mentawai islands. We’ve been here together quite a few times now…(our 12th trip can you believe it?) If you don’t already know, the Mentawais lie 200 kilometres from Padang, Sumatra (the port that got hit by a large earthquake last year). The Mentawais is a series of wave blessed islands […]
Crossover
Not sure what to make of the surf this morning. It’s a concoction of Southerly and Nor-Easterly swell (as Bondi to Bronte seem to be attracting something from different angles). Really nothing special on offer though… Clean conditions… just not enough swell. Cloudy periods, NW winds and the odd shower today (Max 22 degrees). Bondi […]
Sections
Swell has come up alright, but the onshore winds are still blowing. What a difference 24 hours makes…yesterday you’d struggle to surf a wave above your knee caps, and today you’ll score a chunky 4 footer out at South Bondi. The quality isn’t there though – lumpy, bumpy and sectiony…nonetheless – there are waves and […]
