Laydaze
The swell is down and the wind is up from the south – a good combo to watch a whole season of Entourage and rest up – not much else to do on a boat at sea with tiny wind chop. It can’t be pumping everyday up here, we’re all surfed out anyway after 7 […]
Windows
Well it’s been quite a different trip to the Mentawais this year. There has been plenty of smoking waves to be had…I should mention…in amongst the rain and howling southerly gusts. In 1 day the weather has been changing so much – you just don’t know what to expect. Some breaks have been on just […]
Tsunami
Yesterday I surfed for around 7 hours – I can barely lift my arms now (yep, it was that good). The swell arrived and some really fun 4 footers were on offer in the Mentawai Islands. Bit of trouble with flukey winds that blow for an hour, then glass off, then blow again. The sought […]
Punters
We have moved to a part of the Islands called Lances. The swell is still tiny but there are some fun waves around exposed breaks nearby. We still haven’t seen the real perfection that these islands are famous for. Lances area was badly hit by the Tsunami last year – the Bintang village has now […]
Curves
Howdy. The expected swell hasn’t really turned on (yet). The charts were showing an increase in swell activity today, but I don’t think it’s arrived. Must be running late. Currently we have a small groundswell from the east, and the wind is barely blowing (maybe 4 knots from the west) – so she’s super clean […]
Taylor, Griggsy and the kids
That spike in swell arrived but didn’t really hang around. Bondi had a large crowd out at sunrise enjoying 2-3 footers, warm water and perfect sunshine. I headed down to Cronulla (Greenhills to be exact) to hook up with Matty Griggs (ex-coach to world champs like Mick Fanning and Steph Gilmore) and his super grom […]
