Tsunami
Yesterday I surfed for around 7 hours – I can barely lift my arms now (yep, it was that good). The swell arrived and some really fun 4 footers were on offer in the Mentawai Islands. Bit of trouble with flukey winds that blow for an hour, then glass off, then blow again. The sought […]
isolation
After surfing a mechanical left all morning the crowds got a bit heavy so we headed north. 1hr of motoring and we came across a remote idyllic paradise island with a 300 metre right hander down one side and a short left down the other. (not a soul in sight). The kind of setup you […]
Back on
The swell came back today up here in the Mentawai Islands. (Thankfully). The 25 boats in the area travelled overnight to their favourite breaks spread out in the archipelago. We arrived at dawn to a 3 foot mechanical left which is so perfect, it’s as if it was engineered specifically for practising your backhand whacks. […]
