Onshaw
The smothering southerly is here, and it’s making a mess. The rain will come later tonight (9-15mm), but until then, we have a much cooler day (23). I saw waves around waist to chest high, the gruesome onshore junkie variety. The water was pretty empty, but plenty of people were on the beach. Good day […]
Badais, Tribes and Tides
The Indonesian archipelago of Mentawais (‘Ments’) consists of 70 islands, but four larger islands dominate the landscape. The wave-rich area lines the outside of Sumatra and cops the full brunt of swells from the south. June, July, and August are typically peak seasons with the biggest waves of the year, but so far, we’ve only […]
Pulchritudinous
[ puhl-kri-tood-n-uhs, –tyood– ] adjective physically beautiful; comely. Today is a good looking day! It looks even better after 6 months of rain. Waves were small, suitable for super-groms under 35 kilos. Not a breath of wind, solar galore, let’s party. Put the boards away, it’s gonna be flat for days. End of the week […]
Valentine
It had a lotta potential this morning; I felt the high tide (7:30am) was drowning it though. There’s plenty of wobble and backwash to contend with. Every now and then a little nugs will hit the bank correctly – making it fun. Thanks to Ex Cyclone Dovi – we’ve had a magnificent supply of swell […]
High Key
Velvety gold rays strung out across the bay this morning; the kinda light I love to shoot. Everything looks good, draped in gold. It’s even more of a treat when I was expecting a fully clouded sky and junkie ocean this morning. It’s clean and head-high, that howling southerly has passed on by. Both sandbanks were […]
TUTTO BENE
What a nice morning in Sydney. Perfectly sunny, chilly and a new south swell to boot! Bondi was attracting waves over head-high this morning, and it looked like it was growing. The swell should peak today. A bulldozer has started work on the north end, moving sand back into the ocean from the recent swell […]
Le Gauche
Indonesia is the land of the left-handers. Indo’s orientation to the great swells from the Indian Ocean means they break left more than right. A goofy footer’s paradise. I reckon we surf 4 lefts to every right. I’m a natural footer! Our bump in swell is dropping and the swell magnets are still putting on a show. […]
Thanks Tassie
A low off Tasmania two days ago has thrown up some waves. You bewty! What a pleasant surprise to roll down and see head high sets this morning at Bondi. Combine that with 25-degree water and you’ve got yourself a top morning. Winds will blow NE later (15 knots). Not much shift in the tides […]
Grey Suits
Yesterday Bondi Beach was closed due to multiple shark sightings (a big one apparently). A few of the local boys exited the water – screaming! Wow. Also, there was a rescue yesterday at North Bondi with a man in distress. Hence 3 emergency helicopters in the bay after lunch. All action down here yesterday. All […]
Hot hot hot
Flick the out-of-office on; you’re done for the day. It’s too hot not to go to the beach. There’s a huge mass of hot air creeping into Sydney from inland Australia. It’s gonna hit 37 degrees today. Yep, you read it right, 37. Waves – yeah, there’s some for the logs. 1-2 foot, peeling at 6 […]
Goofy vs Natural
Fact: The best waves in Indonesia are usually lefts. It’s due to the physical orientation of Indonesia and how it relates to the South Westerly swell source. On a boat charter, there is a constant divide between the natural footers and goofys – we’ve got a 50-50 split this year and the wolf pack go […]
Keyser’s
We’re up in the Mentawais, a group of islands off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. Plenty of swell and the islands have been lighting up. After surfing 7 different breaks in 48 hours we opted for a slow session at a beach break away from the crowds. It turned on nicely. No official name for […]
Pleasure
Beautiful, damn fine, salubrious morning down at Bondi Beach today. The type of morning that’s it’s such a pleasure to do my job – swim. There are remnants of the weekend’s swell, clear blue water, clear skies and a positive vibe. New big swell arriving Wednesday/Thursday this week. We are getting a swell once a […]
