Fluidform
It’s still breaking, yeah, ah-huh, but smaller than yesterday. An excellent run of surfable days with light winds. Dreamy. Maybe this makes up for 2020 – where a wave didn’t break at South Bondi for 6 !@#!$ months! 6 months! 2 months of which we had a damn fence around a closed beach. So this […]
Plunge
With such comfortable morning conditions, it’s hard not to go for a swim with my camera instead of shooting from the land. The water is so clear, so warm. The vibe was very positive and busy! Waist to chest high waves continue to break on multiple banks along Bondi. The crowd is hectic, not for […]
Funny Farm
It’s wild out there, chaos. Boards flying in all directions, rights on lefts, lefts on rights, 5 per wave. Wear your Stackhat and dodge the torpedos – it’s 2 foot and packed! Its incredible how much the surf dropped out overnight, slipping three gears and idling at sunrise. Clean morning, glorious conditions brought out the […]
Succession
There is something very rewarding when your children start to show interest in your passions – like surfing + photography. My little fella came out this morning for a few tandem slides with old mate Joel Pilgrim from Waves of Wellness. He’s 7 and can surf on his own these days out the back, but I […]