D-Day
The moment you’ve all been waiting for has come. After a long week of wild stormy weather, finally, the winds are offshore, the rain has dissipated, the swell remains. Yeah! It’s looking pretty sweet out there for surfers. No, not pumping, just fun. The banks seem a bit all over the shop. It’s the best […]
Blow Back
10:05pm, Thursday night…THAT’s when the wind will subside. That’s when the surf will clean up and you’ll be busting out of the gates to get a week’s worth of waves. Be patient. If you’re frothing I suggest driving over to Manly, that will be outta the wind and clean. Friday will be a good surf […]
Lagoon
Lagoons form around islands like Moorea as the volcanic landmass subsides into the ocean (over millions of years), leaving a coral outer ring – hence creating beautiful lagoons. It’s a slow but very fruitful process. The lagoons are full of marine life and sheltered from the pumping swells on the outer reefs. Moorea gets a […]
Marooned
Hello. Hola. Bom Dia. Ciao. I hope you’re loving this exquisite weather. Delightful ain’t it? Bondi stepped up a gear this morning…it was crazy packed at sunrise. We have visitors from all over the globe ducking down the beach to get a glimpse of our famous sunrises. Ok, some were still out from the night […]
Joy
Ah yes, these mornings are to be celebrated. They are special. They make you feel unreal. The water is balmy, the waves are rideable and Bondi has a pile of energy about it. It’s pumping! And this weekend looks HOT HOT HOT so we’re in for a huge one. I swam for around 1.5 hours […]
Patchy
The sky was smothered with clouds. A light rain shower at 6:00am would have persuaded you to stay in bed. You’re not missing much down the beach. A new NE swell has hit, 2ft max. Quiet down the beach. I spent a bit of the morning riding around Bondi, down the alleys, looking for stuff […]
S a b b a t i c a l
Dear Friends, I’m packing up shop for a bit and heading for Hawaii. Yes Hawaii. The Rock…The Surfers Mecca. Why? I’m gonna chill out, sleep under a coconut tree, teach my kids to hot wire cars, try swim around at Pipeline and score some waves for myself. Today’s shots are from my last sabbatical over […]
S T R A T U S
I saw some clouds today. Haven’t seen ‘em in a while. It was bound to happen one of these days after the good-weather-marathon. This new south swell is a bit of a fizzer and never properly arrived. I saw waves around waist to chest high this morning but they were severely weak, dribbling on the […]
2 8 6 0
I just worked out that I’ve filed around 2,860 of these photo updates. That’s thirteen years worth of morning light. I feel tired just writing that. ‘Gotta say, I still really enjoy these mornings. East swell, loads of golden rays and small but fun 2-3 footers. The water temperature is holding onto its summer warmth […]
