Ombak Tidur
Ombak tidur…the waves have gone to sleep. We’re up here in Mentawais awaiting an inbound swell. Usually, in May, we cop a heap of big surf that is fed by the storms down below Western Australia in The Roaring 40s. The swell charts show promise and the boys on the boat are getting’ twitchy. We’ve had […]
Thunders
May, June, July are usually the best months to come to the Mentawais for surfing. It’s when all the winter storms down near the roaring 40s, 50s and 60s kick in, dispersing swell in this direction. I won’t lie, this trip we’ve had a consistent run of 3-5 foot days and beautiful weather – nothing […]
Bake
The weekend was the 1st big one for the season – hot, muggy, crowded with northerly winds – just perfect for a lazy Sunday afternoon on our beloved coastline. A lot of wintery bleached white bods on the beach, hunting their first dose of a base tan. Waves – not really happening today or on […]
Indo Magic
I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]
Below
Our Mentawai voyage is off to a slow start this year. That’s cool; it can’t pump every day here. An off day in The Ments is head high anyway…that eases the jolt from our training grounds; the Bondi Beach rip bowls to these hollow coral reef breaks. There is still plenty of other things to do […]
10 minutes
This morning I went swimming with my camera but had a little short circuit in my housing…so for 10 minutes it continuously shot frames @ 10 frames per second. That’s a lot of throw aways. These 9 images where the keepers from 6,000 images shot in that short space of time. Not much to surf […]
S o g g y
There were good clean waves yesterday afternoon, but it’s not so great now. The rain also took the gloss off the morning. This week only improves from here on though…a new ground swell hitting tomorrow. Best days Wednesday, Thursday – Friday morning is looking real tasty. So I’d hang out until then. Rainy day Random […]
