Pandemonium
The conditions aligned for a large Bondi crowd this morning. Quite a special morning with lots of waves, everywhere I swam. The golden winter light was the icing on the cake! So good! This fresh batch of south swell will only get bigger as the period jumps to 13 seconds. Hopefully, it won’t get too […]
Sneaky Swell
I expected very small surf this morning, but this extremely south swell (190 degrees) continues to chug into our bay—it’s three feet! It’s not just 3 feet, but it’s consistently 3 feet, with waves breaking every few seconds, supplying an extensive, frothing, hungry sunrise crowd. With so many waves, I was surprised by so many […]
Jack.
Oh, Jack. The Olympic surfing finals just ended at Teahuppo, and what a final it was—Australia vs. France/Tahiti—Jack Robinson on Kauli Vaast. I’ll let you watch the replays to find out who wins. Mother nature can be so cruel! It was a glorious morning in Bondi. Sunshine galore and 2-3 foot chuggers kept a big […]
