S a b b a t i c a l
Dear Friends, I’m packing up shop for a bit and heading for Hawaii. Yes Hawaii. The Rock…The Surfers Mecca. Why? I’m gonna chill out, sleep under a coconut tree, teach my kids to hot wire cars, try swim around at Pipeline and score some waves for myself. Today’s shots are from my last sabbatical over […]
B E A C H T I M E
Merry Christmas! Hope the fatman came through with the goods. I saw plenty of new boards out there in the line-up over the past couple of days (mine included). Lucky lil’ vegemites aren’t we? So the weather has been pretty bi-polar and a new storm is brewing hitting town Sunday. Ok – this will bring […]
S E C O N D M E N T
Today was one of those days where taking photos just didn’t seem like the right option. A dreary combo of rain and ankle biters. Yawn…pass the crumpets! Let’s look at some Hawaiian grunt shot earlier this year on my North Shore secondment. Apparently there is swell coming later today. That’d be nice. This Sunday is […]
T R A N S I T I O N
It poured around 6:00am today. That’s normally when I start rolling down the beach. Hard to believe that now seeing it’s just gone perfectly sunny. I mean seriously, take a look out the window – it’s a beach cracker (max 26). The waves were pretty lacklustre this morning. Something dribbling in the south end but […]
Kaimana
The Hawaiian word/name ‘Kaimana’ translates into English as “The Power of the Ocean”…and it can also represent the English word ‘Diamond’. Both translations apply to the surf conditions lately. The North Pacific has lit up with a double banger swell over the past few days. Pipeline has been a mental 15 feet with 100+ crew […]
Wet
It’s small here in Hawaii, like Bondi today…but a thumper is on the way tomorrow. That’s exciting. Wish we had all this swell in our summer. Smaller conditions meant I could swim around underwater; early…most people don’t get to the beach before 9am here. Very different to Bondi (keep in mind it is winter here, […]
21 Degrees North
I have to say this hasn’t been my standard trip to Hawaii. The weather has been a little funky. Lots of rain and fickle swells with howling winds. Not like the previous few years. The surf is still special…regardless. Water hasn’t been so clear – hence the lack of underwater shots. Today we have wind […]
S-p-a-m
Hawaiians love eating canned S*p]am (Spicy Ham). You can tell by the size of sales display at Foodland. In fact Hawaiians consume the most S*p]am per capita in the United States (if not the world). Bet you didn’t know that. There’s even a S*p]am cook book here…mmmmm. Now that I’ve informed you of that useless […]
Blue Hawaii
There is another large swell heading for Hawaii today…probably the 4th big one I’ve seen in 3 weeks. There is no shortage… Today they kicked off the Volcom Pipe Pro in anticipation of that inbound swell. Currently its 6-8 foot, overcast and a bit wobbly – that should change. Watch it live Not all these […]
Confessions
“There’s chicks out there. And they’re in bikini’s”. This is Uge’s attempt to build my confidence to take the SUP out in front of our place nestled between Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach. If you’ve seen his pics from the last few days on Oahu’s North Shore you’ll understand my trepidation. What Uge neglects to […]
Cavernous
It’s been 10 days on nonstop rogue swell here in Hawaii. Pipe has been working most days but last night was a standout session. Waves were 8-10 (These pics probably don’t do the size of the day justice)…and some freaky 2nd reef and 3rd reef wash throughs…which I don’t know how to quantify…but they felt […]
North Shore
Alooooha! Sorry about the radio silence. Just been taking it easy here in Hawaii. Y’know…bit of holidays, bit of shooting. The swell has been ridiculously big the past week. Haven’t seen a day less than 6 foot. Today it came up again and there are faces at Pipeline that are over 30 foot! The swell […]
Pipe
It’s going to be a hot one back home in Sydney…not so hot here in Hawaii but definitely better waves! Pipeline was working this morning with clear skies and little wind. The usual masses were out, more sponsored surfers than a WCT event. It’s gotta be the most photographed wave in the world. Was 6-8 […]