Tardy
Sorry about the late post; I’d like to say I’ve been soaking up the day’s sunshine and small, clean waves! Nah, that’s next week. What a beautiful winter’s day—sunshine galore and neat little two-footers to keep you entertained. We’ve got some north winds, which bring the warmer temps. Tomorrow will be an incredible 22 before […]
Sublime Brine
It’s a tad cooler than the water in the Maldives; it was very invigorating this morning! I’m awake now. Another glorious winter’s morning. Small two-footers were peeling left of a groomed central bank. Really fun for the higher volume surf vehicles. Loving the clear skies…hope it continues. :: uge
The Skanky Port
A port is a part of my water housing that allows me to shoot in the brine. You have different ports to match your lenses. Over the years, I’ve shot with dozens of lenses whilst swimming. Today, I swam out with an old port from the back of the cupboard, and it had all kinds […]
El Cracker
After the past two summers we’ve recently had, we deserve these GLORIOUS summery days. It’s so lovely outside you’re mad if you don’t go outdoors – even just for a fiver and a sit on the grass to soak it all in. A cracker. SE winds are declining into the arvo – a bit choppy […]
Acclimatise
Before the sun rose, it was a little chilly. The last thing you felt like doing was dunking in the ocean, but if you did, you’d agree that it was well worth it! Super warm in, cold out…take advantage of the salubrious water temperature before it drops. The swell has dropped a few gears and […]
Dreamy…
After so much rain it’s nice to see a bright sunny morning down at Bondi. These mornings are a rarity this year, it’s been a shocker. Unfortunately, this glorious weather will be short-lived, as there’s a chance of rain and thunderstorms later tonight. So – live the now and go for a swim – it’s […]
Amusement
Now we’re talking – finally, those glamour autumn days where everything is just right. The water is a comfortable 23, winds zero, sunshine is a 12 outa 10 and the waves were shoulder to head high on sets! Bingo! A huge crowd frothing over the early autumn delights – a bit too busy for my […]
Inferno
The sunrise colours stole the show this morning. Wow, so intense, so bright. It started pink then shifted to deep golds—quite the spectacle. The waves were less impressive, knee caps to waists, peeling rights lacking grunt. Longboarding, beginners, kids – its your day. RAIN is coming and staying for most of this week. Tomorrow will […]
Volcanic stratosphere
Have you been noticing the glorious light glows at sunset and sunrise? (last night was amazing) Wanna know why? In short, volcanic ash is high in the sky – from the Tonga volcanic eruptions. How high is this ash? 50kms high. That’s high…and in the golden hours of the day, it illuminates. Down the beach […]
Bustling
We’ve had another morning of sunshine, north winds and north swell. Everyone was up early, hitting the beach… it was busy. Walkers, surfers, people carry rocks, boot camps, outdoor gyms, doof doof…a hive of activity in the wee hours. The surf looks much cleaner than in previous days. The water is SUPER CHILLY after the […]
Pump / Dump
Hey hey! It’s just like yesterday, but bigger. We’ve had an excellent run of weather and waves over the past couple of weeks. The water remains a very comfortable 22ish degrees…the Gold Coast was 25 on the weekend! The swell is on the decline and will get smaller for the rest of the week. There’s […]
Waterworld
Even though the surf was dribbly and without push, it was a fun vibe in the water. Firstly, it’s warm in the brine – 23+ degrees. The warmest time of year to swim, so get into it. Secondly, there’s good banks and the odd 1-2 foot had a loggers wall spilling to the beach. I […]
Funny Farm
It’s wild out there, chaos. Boards flying in all directions, rights on lefts, lefts on rights, 5 per wave. Wear your Stackhat and dodge the torpedos – it’s 2 foot and packed! Its incredible how much the surf dropped out overnight, slipping three gears and idling at sunrise. Clean morning, glorious conditions brought out the […]
