THIRTY.
30. It’s not my birthday; today will heat up to a balmy 30 degrees. Comfortable, isn’t it? It’s still chilly in the water—18 degrees. We’ve had a spike in the swell as the new stuff feeds in, but early low tides were quite horrible—they closed out along the beach. Right now, as I type this, […]
Disorder
It’s a 23-degree cracker of a day in Sydney. Perfect for outdoor activities, including surfing, as a south swell is spitting out 3-footers under well-groomed northerlies. A huge sunrise crowd was up early, feasting on anything moving at Bondi. It would have to be one of the most crowded surf breaks in the world on […]
Drainers
The beach is full of dramatic rips, sweeps and shallow banks. Exacerbated by the lower morning tides, there’s plenty of hollowness and straightness. Nothing too exciting, 2-3 foot (mainly 2) but the super-groms and mini-john-johns were pumped. Sun finally came out, and the winds were non-existent. Clean az. I’m a big fan of Indonesia and […]
High Performance
The surf was on so all of Bondi’s finest shredders were up for the early. It was quite a display of high-performance surfing. I was busy today, reos on the rights, airs on the shorey, carves on the lefts. It was a very active lineup with consistent waves around head-high. At dawn I began in […]
