Indecision
If you’re looking to kill half a day, put 5 surfers in a car and drive around the northern beaches for 7 hrs. Easy done! Check break A,B,C then go back to C, check D, then one surfer reckons the tide is good for A but by that time we’re due for coffee and gags, […]
east peaks
The inbound east swell arrived and provided some fun ones this morning. Looking out the window as I write this I can’t see a cloud in the sky – my, my, what a difference a couple of hours can make (it looked like it was going to bucket down at 7am and was shooting in […]
Gold
What a magic day to not be in the office. 3-5 foot waves, clean offshores and finally some sunshine – the 3rd day without rain in a month. Bondi had some great waves at sunrise. A left was putting on some barrells, but I reckon that would be a common story on many beaches in […]
memories
As winter dominates today we have soggy 2-3 footers at Bondi. The SE winds are making a mess of it so you’ll have to surf somewhere with better protection. I sat in the car park for 30 minutes as it poured (and still is pouring), shooting some of the worst images I’ve taken in a […]
S O A K E D
The rain hasn’t stopped all morning making it difficult to shoot anything decent. Hence the flash back to last week’s Mentawai gold. If you like surfing Bondi @ 3-4 foot and with only a handful of guys, today is your day. Just excuse the drain water runoff and ugly skies. Winds will swing ESE later […]
Bank Vaults
The anticipated swell has arrived and roared in, in true indo fashion. Bank Vaults lit up for a large crowd from the local resorts. (Yep, there are now resorts and camps up here.) Heavy waves at Bank Vaults (at 6 foot) – when you’re in, you’re locked in. Bank Vaults is also as shifty as […]
angin
Well, the waves have been consistently good and now we have a large inbound swell. BUT, the wind (“angin” in the local lang) is playing havoc. Storms are ripping through as intense lows grind along the west coast of Australia, smashing into the Mentawai Islands. Surf options are limited and we’re mainly hiding in coves […]
FAQ
Hi there. We’re still in the islands. Get a lot of questions on email so I’d thought I’d do a Q+A special: How long are we in Mentawais? Back in 1 week, half way thru a 12 day charter around the islands. I like it here. Big swell hittin’ here soon. Why? Good waves – […]
Jungle Feeva
Uge has taken the bold move of inviting me to write today’s update. I’m standing in the wheel house of the Tengirri after just surfing perfect 3 foot rights at “burger world” on day 4 of our boat charter. Here’s how you really know you’re on a boat trip… You’re taking more naps during the […]
Sempurna
Hi there. Hope the claws of winter haven’t dug deep in our absence… Over here it’s 30 degrees, glassy with 3-4 foot waves. Our boat has anchored up for the day against a remote left hander. A playful wave with a easy going take off and forgiving reef….(not like yesterday). It was a nice change […]
Black Magic
Another day of magic in the islands, similar to yesterday. At sunrise the right was 4 – 6 foot, ultra clean and tubing… (and dangerous). Our young gun Caleb Reid punted for the heavens wave after wave. Like a child in a candy store. One of the boys on the boat got tangled in the […]
Mentawais
Selmat Pagi. Welcome to the Mentawai islands. We’ve been here together quite a few times now…(our 12th trip can you believe it?) If you don’t already know, the Mentawais lie 200 kilometres from Padang, Sumatra (the port that got hit by a large earthquake last year). The Mentawais is a series of wave blessed islands […]
weirdo
Strange old day out there. To start with I thought the waves were going to be orn, like it was last night. Nope. Dropped back and messed up. Bondi was predominantly closing out 2-3 foot…nothing special. A ground swell from the south will build during the day as the SE winds come up. Tomorrow looks […]
