I N D O O R S
Well…it’s been better. As in better waves and better weather. It hasn’t stopped raining for hours and your vehicle is gettin’ a free wash today. I saw junkie waves around head high, sometimes bigger – but the ocean needs to calm down, so does the wind. It’s no Keramas out there…that’s for sure. Enjoy the […]
Bronte Bunker
Windy and chunky – that’s a good summation of what I saw down the beach today. You’ll need to surf nooks and crannies tucked away from the Southerly. Its kinda offshore right now, SW, but it will edge around to the South later today and pick up to 20 knots. Typical winter’s day. Rained 3 […]
Nuggets
It’s big. Chunky. Wow, what a difference 24hrs can make. As forecasted the solid dead south swell has hit flanked with freezing SW offshores. Coldest morning of the year so far, 3 degrees out west, 7 degrees around the coast. The water remains warm – can you believe it. Bronte had a few bombs, looked […]
I’d rather be…
I crashed the car, I ate some bad chicken last night, she dumped me, I’m locked out of my apartment (since yesterday), my best friend is getting married, there’s a big client over north side that is close to signing… …these are all plausible excuses to wag work and go for a drive to find […]
The Sydney Eye
MMM, another grey day here in Sydney. Looks like we’re going for a record… I can hear the pitta-patter on the tin roof now as yet another squall passes by. The surf looks small and junkie this morning – the beach relatively empty. Bondi not great, Bronte had a few on offer – but it […]
Fatty
I am not going to complain about the winter-like weather conditions we have in Sydney at the moment. Beltin’ summer is just around the corner, I just know it, so this is a good time to get some work done… We have some waves worth talking about this morning. It’s 3 foot – nice and […]
Last Day
Our little junket in the Mentawai’s has come to a close as we set sail for mainland Indonesia. Plenty of waves in the first half of the trip, bit light on in the second – except today where it came up to 4-5 foot on a hollow left. The winds up here have been a […]
Laydaze
The swell is down and the wind is up from the south – a good combo to watch a whole season of Entourage and rest up – not much else to do on a boat at sea with tiny wind chop. It can’t be pumping everyday up here, we’re all surfed out anyway after 7 […]
The Indian blue
There’s not much between the Mentawai Islands and the bottom of this planet – just a massive expanse of Indian Ocean between Australia and Africa. This absence of land mass keeps the surf rich waters around these islands crispy blue clear…perfect for a day’s swimming around with your camera. The surf has been good – […]
Windows
Well it’s been quite a different trip to the Mentawais this year. There has been plenty of smoking waves to be had…I should mention…in amongst the rain and howling southerly gusts. In 1 day the weather has been changing so much – you just don’t know what to expect. Some breaks have been on just […]
Punters
We have moved to a part of the Islands called Lances. The swell is still tiny but there are some fun waves around exposed breaks nearby. We still haven’t seen the real perfection that these islands are famous for. Lances area was badly hit by the Tsunami last year – the Bintang village has now […]
Ombak Kecil
So here we are…drifting between islands in search of good waves following swell charts and good weather. It’s been small so far, 3 to 4 foot – with some really small low tide sessions. Windy too which is not normal for this equatorial surf haven. Early this morning we had some sheet glass but just […]
Mentawais
Selmat Pagi. It’s been a long time since I’ve traveled. Around 8 months to be exact (cause we had a baby). The next two weeks the photos are going to be via satellite as we’re in the Mentawais Islands, Indonesia on charter boat Tengirri. It’s paradise here…the waves are 3 foot today, getting bigger in […]
