Chunky
The forecasted swell has arrived, it’s smaller than predicted, but very very south (or even Southwest). When it’s too south, it can fly straight past Sydney. Finding a decent wave to surf will be challenging. Bondi was a mess with too much going on. There is going to be waves all week long, it’s not […]
Hottie
Quite confusing what to wear in the mornings, the weather has been all over the shop. This morning at sunrise was teeshirts only. Small confused north wind swell is in town, the odd 2 footer. Nothing special. The biggest news of the day is that it’s gonna heat up to 25 degrees – beach weather […]
Theory
On paper, we’ve got all the right ingredients for a great surf day. Offshore grooming winds, 4-5 foot south swells, sunshine…quieter Autumn crowds…so why aren’t I frothing? I just can’t seem to find anything pumping around ‘ere. The swell seems a little random, and junkie. The early morning high tides are fatting up any workable […]
16 seconds
We have a 16-second, chunky south swell in town today. It’s come up a lot overnight. Bondi wasn’t really handling it (no surprises there) but if you have a hunt around you’ll find something. Protected corners are the better options. Winds remain perfectly west – great for a lot of surf spots in Sydney. The […]
Burning Orange
Crispy clean autumn morning. The horizon was clear of cloud so first light at Bronte was incredibly gold! A welcome sight. Maximum of 22 degrees today. There is a head high south swell in town coupled with favourable west winds. West winds are always cold but best for Sydney surfing. Swell is on the way […]
Calm
One word…cold! Temperatures plummet as we head into a cold weekend. This storm will bring in a big south swell on Sunday/Monday. Boom! Summer is officially over and fond memories of those baking hot beach days slip into the horizon. It sure was a hot one. Watch this short film made entirely on my phone. […]
The Slow
I was a little shocked to see good (ok, maybe just surfable) waves down at our beaches this morning. Hell, even Bondi had a wave that was not just a shorey. Has the sand finally moved? Don’t get too excited…still, plenty of bank making required. Waves are definitely over head high. The winds are much lighter, […]
Downgrade
Usually when there is a 13 second, 3-4 foot south swell and offshore winds I have some fantastic waves to shoot. The forecast was a dud – a nonevent – didn’t happen. I can hear the crowd booing, cars are being over turned on the streets and riot police on high alert. What happened? Where […]
Boom!
Today’s quite interesting. I am not too sure what to make of it. Last night it all flipped, we now have an NE swell – and a big one. Waves look very junkie around here – but I KNOW places must be cooking right now. F.O.M.Oing quite badly here at my desk. I’d check the […]
Bullet points
What-a-day! Magic. Deluxe. Exquisite. Waves – nah. 6 things random things about your ‘hood: After years and years of rumours, Justin Hemmes of Merivale has officially purchased the Royal Hotel in Bondi (Cnr of Bondi Road and Denham). He paid nearly 30 mil for the joint – the deal is done. The Royal has been there since 1904 and […]
Blue Light
Hmmn, an interesting morning. Really different. The light seemed to be blue. Everything had a cool kelvin temp. It was sunny, then cloudy, then sunny (all in 1 hour). It even rained on me, whilst still being sunny. It was dead calm early then 10 minutes later howling. It’s cold, I am wearing a jumper […]
Lightless
It was a dark cold morning. I found myself kicking around waiting for some the light. We’ve now past the winter solstice (June 21) so the days will get longer slightly from here. Hooray. There are waves around, head high on sets. The offshores are grooming and making for good conditions. It’s pretty darn cold […]
Well hello.
Coupla little waves on offer this morning. It ain’t pumping, but it’s contestable. A bit of junk in the morning sess, maybe that’ll get ironed out as the day progresses. Swell will go tiny tomorrow before rocking back up on Tuesday. Whilst were we scoring 8 foot plus in Mentawais last week Taj and a […]
