6’s to 9’s
I’m loving today. Those dull, grey, rainy mornings (6’s) are now exquisite sunny, calm, clean sessions (9’s). The whole week looks decent. The central bank at Bondi had a wave this morning, but it’s fat, so you’ll need a high litreage in your surf vehicles. A big bunch of frothers feasting happily on the 2-foot […]
Conclusion
After a long week of storms, I think today its slowing down. You might even see blue sky later today – let’s hope it dries out our flood-affected areas. Tomorrow looks sunny! I can’t remember a week, in my 23 years of service, where I didn’t pick up a camera due to extremely bad weather. […]
Fury
It’s still big, just not as big. We’ve got a well positioned low hanging off our coastline, feeding Sydney with heaps of goodies. Ah winter swells, gotta love ’em. The 21-knot-bitterly-cold offshores will make you feel alive this morning. The water remains warm and double head high waves are frequently found. The crowds are minimal […]
Beefy
Overnight the swell has spiked into some really chunky chunks. Most beaches are overloaded and a tad out of control – or just plain old closing out. Thankfully the sun was out and the skies were clear. The claws of winter are here and it’s frosty – even if you’re rugged up in the best […]
Puffer
Grab the puffer before heading outside – it’s cold. Polar winds are chilling Sydney. We have a new swell in town, which seems to be growing – shame the banks at Bondi are straight and useless to us. Maybe a punchy swell will bite holes in the sand, creating better banks? Perhaps? We live in […]
23 years
Twenty-three years ago, I had this groundbreaking idea of posting a ‘photo a day’ from the beach. Social media hadn’t even been dreamt up yet, a website called google had just started, and mobile phones were for talking to people. In the nineties, digital cameras had just become semi-affordable (well, kind of – the first […]
Twosday
22.2.2022 it’s a palindrome date today – lots of 2’s. Go for a surf at 2:22pm and magic will happen, waves will clean up and barrel, the sun will shine, 2-second tubes to the beach in 22-degree water – and 2 unicorns will wander down the prom. Right now – it sure is ugly down […]
Cavo Paradiso
When I was a young fella, I had a windfall and decided to dash to Greek Islands to let loose and spend it all. Most nights were spent at Cavo Paradiso, an open-air, amphitheatre shaped eastern facing clifftop bar carved from stone. Its opening hours was like 1am to 10am and at 6:30 am, when the […]
Moments
As we head into the final straight for Christmas, the beach starts to get quiet. This morning, the waves were tiny as a new southerly breeze was ruffling the surface. There were pockets of light as the high cloud was forever transforming. Today’s post is a collection of images taken between now and last Friday […]
Free Pineapples
It was a tough morning to shine up the overcast mundane conditions into a series of riveting images. Sluggish one footers broke on a couple of peaks, best suited to 20-kilo groms. The skies are dark, and we’ve had patchy rain already as the mercury creeps to a balmy 25 degrees. Winds are north and […]
Flat Earth.
It’s flat az. It’s a lake. It’s so flat you could mistakenly think that you just woke up in The Med. It’s rare to see our ocean this flat and energyless. Surfing – ha!Swimming – ah-huh! It was a glorious spring morning with a chill in the air. The west winds always bite deep. Those […]
Blush
I was a little late to the party this morning as the skies blew up hues of pinks. 5:45 am I was pedalling ferociously towards the beach; I could see a thin cloud off Benny Buckler putting on a colour show…bugger! I’m still slapping myself as I write this riveting editorial. The first light is […]
Beast Mode
If you tried and couldn’t make it out there this morning, that’s ok, it’s big and rather straighty-180. I saw a lotta surfers leaving the beach with dry hair, foamie between their legs – when in doubt, don’t go out! Huge amount of water moving on the sets. The swell has grown overnight into the […]