
Deprived
It’s been a tough week for us surfers due to a lack of swell. I bet there are some cranky pant foam riders reluctantly working from home…looking very detached in their zoom calls. I bring good news; next week has plenty of swell – but also plenty of onshore wind (and rain). I don’t care, […]

30°C
We’re set for a brilliantly sunny, warm, spring day as we head towards 30 degrees. It’s so nice outside, enjoy it, as winds will be stronger later and a chance of a thunderstorm tonight. The water was cold. It’s always cool after days of northerlies. We’ve got a NE swell in town, I didn’t see […]

Goosebumps
There are waves, quite big ones (4-6ft) but are they rideable? Not really. I didn’t see many decent ones. Wild bucking horses everywhere I looked. Backwash blowing the backs out – the works! Offshore – si. Sunshine – plenty. Cold – very. Stoke factor – cosi cosi. Somewhere else would be good, or around here […]

High Hopes
I thought after a day of settling, the ocean would’ve come good. I’ve seen images on The Gram from northside that look inviting. Not much around here though… The swell still looks very wonky, buckled, random. All morning, loitering around many of the Eastern suburbs beaches, I didn’t see anybody get a good wave. It’s […]

Sun Worship
The coldest part of the day is just minutes before the sun rises, I reckon. Especially when the west winds are blowing, wow, it’s frosty. This morning was particularly cold, my phone said 7 degrees at 6am, but with wind chill – perhaps 5? The sand was toe numbing. The best part of the day […]

Sunny Chills
It’s sunny, but it feels cold. At sunrise, it was cold. In my opinion, the ocean looks confused. Another mixture of swells, clashing and washing about. I didn’t really see any quality waves on my morning adventures. There’s a head high wave on offer, but it’s definitely not clean nor organised. For the next few […]

Post-Blitz
Last week sounded quite exciting around Sydney (Coastalwise). So many pics circulating on the net of giant tubes and brave hellmen. Well, today it’s 1-2 foot! Most beaches have erosion from the recent storm. Enormous rocks are being revealed and bulldozers are trying to even out the movements of sand. Perfectly sunny weather. In fact, […]

Oasis
Put the boards away and go outside; it’s impressive. Twenty-three banging degrees, not too shabby for a winter’s day. The surf is shabby though. 1 footers, suitable for my micro groms and newbies to the sport. A north wind blew warm and early. The next time you will surf will be Saturday afternoon, Sunday looks […]

City to Surf
Last night the weatherman mentioned “Fog tomorrow” about 5 times. So I ventured into the big smoke, cameras ready for those moody foggy Harbour Bridge scenes. Whilst the fog never eventuated, there were moments of vibrant light on some well-trodden paths around Circular Quay. The surf was clean and waist to shoulder high today. The […]

Corey is back…
I think Corey Worthington has moved into my street. Remember Corey? Australia’s most infamous party organising teenager. Since the lifting of restrictions, I’ve got to say Bondi has gone wild. For the past two nights, I’ve had a bunch of annoying punks keeping me awake until 4am (I think it’s the same bunch still going […]

Nah.
Like most recent days, there are waves on offer, clouds, a tiny bit of rain and shocking banks at Bondi. How bad? Ghastly I reckon. The fact that there was barely anyone surfing it is testament. There’s ALWAYS someone out surfing Bondi. There were a couple around the corner at Bronte on some sorta weird […]

Ochre
I love this time of year. The light is fantastic – I can make anything look good when the light is this good. The winter light is so different from our summer rays, which can appear hazy and make colours murky. Winter light is a burnt orange, crispier making colours pop. The sun’s side angle to […]

Low Tide Weed
Bondi’s got plenty of weed at the moment. Yup, fresh batch. Nah, not talking about those dutch-ovens bellowing out of camper-vans in the parking lot, the stuff that comes from the ocean. Great big piles of it, mixed in with plenty of rubbish (Council ain’t doing their regular clean-ups it seems). Not a pretty sight. […]