morning slice
I love these mornings. Crisp morning light with a consistent south swell and not many crew around as it’s a school day. The sun now rises well out to sea in its summer position creating green, backlit walls. It’s a sweet mix between warm in the sun, chilly in the shade. Summer is close. After […]
Hued
Interesting morning…it’s as if someone was messing with the hue and saturation dials in my head (I’ve never been the same since I cracked my head open at Vuey – but that’s another story). 1 minute the skies above Benny Buckler were hued with intense colours, and then moments later its grey, dull and contrast […]
WOW
Wow – what a morning. It all began with a vivid sunrise at Bondi as bright hues smeared across the skies. Loads of people up early exercising after being locked indoors for the past 3 weeks. The swell is still here, Bondi had 4-5 footers but mostly closing out. The Bra has a vicious rip […]
Freedom Town
Welcome to freedom town where the waves are small (knee to waist high) and every wave is a team wave. Some bumps had 8 mini mal wielding wild childs rippin’ it up. Pure chaos as loose boards flung in each direction. Be careful out there – today is more dangerous than 8 foot Bondi. My […]
Shizzle
Hasn’t been much to surf for a few days now. The north swell neglects most of our beaches and is better north side. We had a little semi-surfable shorey at 1 foot(ish). Sets were infrequent and a paddle was more about being in the 24 degree water than surfing anything substantial. Decent sunrise, as fast […]
Spike
A little spike in swell is puttin’ on some 3 footers down at Bondi. Unfortunately the SE wind is still on it creating a bit of bump and wobble. I thought it was going to be much bigger and better than it really is. Boo. Winds will go north later, so that will clean it […]
Dawn
Special kind of day today – a cracker. Light offshores (w) with plenty of sunshine. Small 1-2 foot waves (surfable on mals and fishes).Warm land temps with a max of 26…ah yes, a perfect day to be down the beach. The current plague of jelly fish in town are reaping havoc amongst swimmers…still. Incredible sunrise…I […]
chromatic
No waves but plenty of colour. That’s 2 decent sunrises in 1 week…some one is being good to us. NE micro swell running, totally slipping past Bondi (0.5ft) and maybe dribbling into exposed beaches. I’d be surprised if you could find something above your knee/waistline today. High tide is killing it. Nonetheless, hit the beach, […]
Vivid
The swell is dissipating – and so is the rain – alleluia. Bondi had a weak, floppy 1-2 foot wave this morning – with a large number of people out. It’s not going to get any better for a while so best utilize what’s on offer with a large chunk of fibreglass e.g. Mal, Fish. […]
tidy
There’s waves today, but only at selected breaks. Swell origin is dead east, so a beach facing that direction will be making the most of it. Bondi was neglecting the swell source and 1 foot. Tama and Bronte didn’t have anyone out. Bra had a decent wave. Manly would have one also. So it’s a […]
Technicolour
Mornin’ chinas. At 5:30am I got a wiff of pink starting to light up above Ben Buckler so I rolled down the hill, tripods and multiple cameras in tow. By about 5:40am the skies lit up into full blown technicolour. Quite spectacular. Amazing start to the day. Now before you send me an email saying, […]
Bondi Shine
Probably the flattest day of the week today. You’ll struggle to get moving on those knee cappers out there. Even with a big chunk of fibreglass..yep…you’d have to be a highly motivated person to go surfing today…swim will wash the cobwebs off and advisable with the great weather. Insane morning light today. At 6:10am strong […]
DEAD south
After hanging out in the country for a week it’s nice to come back to quiet winter Bondi with only a few out and 3 foot waves. The swell period is roughly 15 seconds, that’s big for oz kids, kinda like what you get in Indonesia. The swell origin is DEAD SOUTH, so beaches not […]
