Back to work
Today it’s looking pretty good! There are waves around shoulder to head high, and barely anyone around (odd). Winds are light, and surfaces are optimal. The cold weather and late sunrises de-motivated many. Not enough time to surf before work as many finally return to the office. (WFH party is over). It will be sunny all […]
Bondi Bowls
I’m back in Bondi and acclimatising to the cold. Brisk. Hard to believe it will top 23 degrees today after such a chilly start. Bondi had a little left, bowling on the rip. It was empty too, which is rare for here, so the groms took it on. Today is your last day to support […]
Large
It’s still big and unappealing for surfers. Rogue sets are breaking in the 2-3 times head-high range. While smaller than yesterday, it’s still wild to ride. The icy west offshore winds are not helping either…hard to get out of bed today. Maybe tomorrow, but it will be surfable/enjoyable mostly Thursday and Friday. My family and […]
Mental Monday
Everybody loves these mental days when the waves are gigantic and wild. I get asked how big – gosh, I saw sets in the 12ft+ range. The entire bay sometimes closed out as water ran up and hit the ramps. Icebergs was inundated whilst spray at Ben Buckler was at least 4 storeys. Is it […]
Fresh Batch
Last night we were gifted a brand new, clean south swell. It’s fun-sized, head high and occasionally;y bigger. The NNW winds are offshore and keeping it neat — plenty of waves, lots of close outs and the odd nugget. Winds should remain north and clean at south-facing beaches like Bondaka. I say this every day […]
PRIME
No, I am not selling Prime drinks on the black market like the kids – it’s a PRIME day – primo – cracker – epic!@# Why? It’s perfectly west offshore and a bit chilly, but the conditions are clean, and the skies have cleared. The ENE swell is peaking, and I saw waves in the […]
Get Wet
Oh boy, we’ve got a 10-out-10, top-notch, fully-sik cracker of a day outside. It’s going to hit 27 degrees while the winds remain light. There’s even a little wave on offer! GO NOW. GET WET while it’s a glamorous beach day. Why? as it’s gonna rain all weekend. And I mean rain hard. 30 mm […]
Doable
It has turned into a comfortable Autumn’s day out there. There’s a breeze from the NE with a mix of East and South swells. Bondi was reasonably small, with waist-to-shoulder high waves and a manageable crowd. A cloudy start to a gloriously clear sky. How good! Waves will continue tomorrow – we’ve had a good […]
Drainers
The beach is full of dramatic rips, sweeps and shallow banks. Exacerbated by the lower morning tides, there’s plenty of hollowness and straightness. Nothing too exciting, 2-3 foot (mainly 2) but the super-groms and mini-john-johns were pumped. Sun finally came out, and the winds were non-existent. Clean az. I’m a big fan of Indonesia and […]
Light Patches
I’ve had a few weeks off the cameras and indulged in rural quality time with the family. Today I photographed Bondi, and even in that short time away, the light has changed somewhat. The autumn sun’s position is right around the back of Ben Buckler now, seeping side onto the beach…I like that angle. The […]
Gromfest
The swell has switched from south to more ENE – making smaller waves at Bondaka. A couple of rip bowls in the south kept the micro groms entertained as the tide went high (7:30 am). Not many waves are wasted when Bondi’s youngsters mob a peak, 1 foot, half-a-foot, two foot – they thrive. The […]
Bondi Colours
I was up early, fossicking in the dark, stalking sunrise colours. It paid off as the clouds over Benny B got lit! I had the 16-bit 100-megapixel medium format beast blazing as the morning progressed through the different lighting stages. On the beach, waves were breaking around the waist to shoulder high. It looked pretty […]
Unclouded
Autumn – I love this time of year. It’s when the sun tweaks around the back of Ben Buckler and rises into the bay, side onto the waves. You’ll see a lot of silhouette shots from here on, my fave. The water remains warm as the air drops. West winds are plentiful in autumn, which […]