
Giant Folds
Big swells are wasted around here. We don’t have the proper infrastructure to make it break in a rideable fashion when it gets over head-high. Such a shame, ’cause there’s virtually NO wind and conditions are optimal. Somewhere with a reef would be cooking right now. It’s a dead south swell at 180 degrees, so […]

Birds Eye
It’s big and getting bigger. It’s windy – howling onshore!After a five-minute ride, I’ve concluded it’s not a beach day—a write-off, a day inside. Tomorrow will be triple head high, and winds will be variable, so I am sure some reefs down south will be cooking for the hell-riders. I hope this hefty swell pounds […]

Activation
There was so much going on at Bondi this morning. All the tourists are walking around thinking – why is everyone up so damn early! Aussies are weirdos. The waves were not very interesting, especially on the morning lower tides. Perhaps a log during higher tides (middle of the day). The skies are filled with […]

Last day of Summer
It’s the last day of summer (boo!), and we’re finishing it in stereotypical fashion – NE winds, 35 degrees and a tiny swell. It was a super warm morning with a MASSIVE sunrise crowd. So many people from overseas enjoying the morning vibes. Morning low tides created a little exposed sandbar, good for swimmers and […]

Good morning
It was a sensational morning in Sydney, with pink bits scattered across our dawn skies. The water was warm as two footers broke straight. Under the surface, the clarity was decent – recently, the northerlies have brought an unwelcome green-brown murk. Winds are currently very gentle and from the west. The southerly will arrive any […]

Grande
Bondi is gearing up for a party this weekend as 15,000 people hit the beach for the annual Pride party. This morning was a good prelude as the beach was absolutely packed at 6 am. I overheard a British tourist say, “What on earth is going on geezer? I mean, it’s 6am; why is everyone […]

Sublime in da brine
It was freakishly warm and comfortable in the brine this morning. Usually, I’m hesitant to swim after so much rain, but today, it was just too damn seductive! It must have been 24 degrees at sunrise. I swam happily in the rips, mouth closed, for an hour—the rip between ramp 2 & 3 was HECTIC. […]

Moments
The volatile wet weather continues today; it’s pouring as I tap this out. Around 7:10 am there was a brief moment of sunshine, illuminating our bay – I got busy for 30 minutes capturing these images. The surf is small but doable. Waves breaking around waist to shoulder high, uncrowded. Winds are currently SSE with […]

Pulling a Swifty
On a grey, not-so-pretty morning we’ve got 2-3 footers at Bondi, breaking hollow on shallow banks. I reckon pull a swiftie, put the out-of-office on & paddle out for a couple. It’s Friday, and you deserve it. Go’on. Winds are ENE now, but it felt like a westerly earlier (weird). Showers today, a bit more […]

Showertime
The beach is completely deserted as the south change takes over. It’s raining, grey and definitely not a beach day. I did see rideable head-high waves, but it wasn’t enticing enough for most. I didn’t shoot it – due to mundane subject matter! Here are some images from the last 7 days around the neighbourhood. […]

Change imminent
It’s a transition day, and we’re in the calm doldrums at midday. 0-1 knots of Westerly, which will kick to the south change, due any minute now; you can feel it coming. The skies are interesting; it’s either baking sunny or Singapore clouded; regardless, it’s beautiful in the brine. The swell is very North, which […]

Glorious
It’s one helluva beautiful day outside in Sydney. The sun rose, unhindered by horizon cloud, and blanketed Bondi all morning. Vast numbers of people were up early, enjoying sunrise – it was crazy. Today’s ENE swell is small and mainly missing Bondi. Spike reckons it was 1-2 feet, which is practically overhead high for the […]

Pearl Jam Lane
Eddie Vedder surfs! And maybe he’ll dominate our rip bowls soon… Mention Pearl Jam to some of our young readers, and you’ll get – huh? – with eyes rolling back to tiktok immediately. Mention the Jam to someone from my generation, and they’ll reminisce about their youth! Today, you can walk down memory lane as […]