Damp
It’s amazing what a difference 24 hours can make. Right now it’s raining and the beach is completely empty. The onshore winds are smashing anything resembling a wave and everyone is off to work. This same SE onshore wind will create swell for the tail end of the week. So be patient, wait for it […]
Final Voyage
We spent 12 days at sea surfing 12 different surf breaks amongst 3 overlapping swells in the Mentawais. We had 7 surfers on board the 47-foot Tengirri catching on average 40-50 waves each per day, sometimes more. Most days we’d surf 3 times on waves no smaller than 3 foot and no bigger than 8 […]
Friday Bonus
It is the goods out there today…a day to get out of town and go surfing. The sun is shining, the swell is lining up a hell of a lot better than it has been and it’s finally offshore. She’s a little chilly though, so don’t forget your steamer. We have clean 4-5 footers out […]
It’s gonna blow
All nice’n’neat’n’calm down the beach this morning. Stark contrast to the monster that is about to unleash tomorrow. At 7am today you’ve got waist to shoulder high waves on a fun little bank at Bondi. Bondi likes this size, being small, it won’t handle it tomorrow. The sunrise was a beauty. Real shiner…spraying hues of […]
Quiet Mondays
These winter Mondays are the best. All quiet down the beach…not many people getting outta bed for the early. The line-up was uncrowded and dark with a very late sunrise. Small but fun shoulder high peaks breaking left and right at South Bondi. Super clean surfaces…barely any wind at all. The Volcom Fiji Pro is […]
The Yak
Selamat Pagi. Today’s photo update is coming to you from Seminyak, Bali. A lot of you probably already know this, but if you come to Bali, you will need to spend part of your trip here in Seminyak. The ‘Yak is where all the amazing bars, shopping, beachfront hotels and incredible restaurants are. It’s known […]
