Birds Eye
It’s big and getting bigger. It’s windy – howling onshore!After a five-minute ride, I’ve concluded it’s not a beach day—a write-off, a day inside. Tomorrow will be triple head high, and winds will be variable, so I am sure some reefs down south will be cooking for the hell-riders. I hope this hefty swell pounds […]
A L O F T
No need to visit the Maldives or The Caribbean; it’s on your doorstep. There are so many good features of today – the windless turquoise oceans even had a head-high wave for you to slay. The water must be 24 degrees – leave the wetsuit at home and plunge yourself into this salubrious Thursday. It’s […]
Euro Nostalgia
It’s raining in Sydney; it hasn’t stopped all morning. The crusted salt on my car is finally washing away as hopefully, our farmers are jumping for joy with drought reprieve. The beach was pretty ugly this morning. Grey, dark, 2 foot. Nestle into that office chair, it’s going to rain for 48 hours – get […]
Sync
I was out of sync with the beach this morning. I woke, rode down, it rained on me, I found shelter and java, the rain stopped, I returned to the beach, it rained on me again. I sought refuge in a bus shelter, rain stopped, I went to shoot, it rained on me. Now here I […]
Antithesis
After a string of glorious hot beach days we now have the complete opposite. She’s all cooled down now. The fat high pressure system providing hot conditions has blown out to sea revealing a much cooler low that is now sitting over us. Winds are onshore and the surf is a mess. Yesterdays massive crowd […]
Good Times
So glassy, so smooth, so good to see a few waves down at Bondi this morning! I think the good times will be short-lived as an onshore wind is about to blow. I saw some tasty rights in the corner – bit of junk on it…but well worth the paddle. I’d hit it now before […]
The summer bird
I rolled down the beach this morning hoping that the inbound south swell had maybe come early. It hadn’t, the rain has set in and I shot 3 very ugly photographs from the front seat of my car. It’s only 1-1.5 foot. I’m not even gonna show you those 3 photos – they’re that bad. […]
B I G
Hawaii is the land of the BIG. Everything is just so oversized here. You’re not a man unless you drive a big pickup (ute) with a V8 6.0 ltr donk. You know, the type you need a step ladder to get into. Then there are the meals. Most of the time you could feed a […]
flakey
Not much going down at the beaches this morning. I looked around in hope of a stealth bump but only found flakey wind chop. Bondi was 1-2 and not much use to you, unless, of course you’re new to the sport and got ya self a mini mal for chrissy, deck grip and all. I […]
Bondi tsunami
Bondi tsunami – ain’t that a jap feature film or sumpin’? You all know by now that we had a Tsunami warning in Sydney yesterday and all metro beaches where closed (they even called off the Quiky Pro for the day) . We’ll we’re still here, the gallery (which is very close to the water’s […]
‘strayla Day
The stench of beer has nearly dried up…also the 50,000 ‘strayla Day lunatics have bailed and the grass on North Bondi is on the path of rejuvenation. Back to quiet Bondi after a massive, massive, public holiday. I took over 2,000 images yesterday…there was just so much going on…it seems to be the 1 day […]
The Random Foto Show
It’s been raining since I rolled outa bed and the surf is pretty uninspiring – so foto opps are minimal this morning….hence the random archival revival. I’d say 2-3 foot at east exposed beaches (e.g Zee Bra)…the odd 2 footer at Bondi and barely anyone around. This weekend’s forecast is for no waves. Join in […]
Mixed bag
We’ve been fed well by this consistent east swell all week. Yep, it’s still here and producing quality waves around the 4 foot mark at exposed beaches. Bondi wasn’t really happening at 2-3 foot and facing the wrong way, but I am sure you’d find something should you go have a good look around. SW […]
