Clouded*
The swell has dropped a couple of gears and finally, waves are surfable and not closing out straight. I saw bumps breaking in the waist to chest high range – clean too, as there was barely a breath of wind. No sunrise colours today, just a bit of rain and Turneresque cloudy skies. We’re heading […]
Free Pineapples
It was a tough morning to shine up the overcast mundane conditions into a series of riveting images. Sluggish one footers broke on a couple of peaks, best suited to 20-kilo groms. The skies are dark, and we’ve had patchy rain already as the mercury creeps to a balmy 25 degrees. Winds are north and […]
Tints
Everything has been washed with a pink tint this morning due to some cloud colours over the horizon. Like most days of this week, it’s warm, surfable, inviting, crowded. Hot weather will continue until a cooling southerly arrives Sunday. I’m heading to Hawaii today with the Aquatech crew, there’s a huge swell forecast for Sunday […]
