Alooooha!
Sorry about the radio silence. Just been taking it easy here in Hawaii. Y’know…bit of holidays, bit of shooting.
The swell has been ridiculously big the past week. Haven’t seen a day less than 6 foot. Today it came up again and there are faces at Pipeline that are over 30 foot! The swell is a wonky one though, quite unpredictable and plenty of crew getting’ axed on the reef.
I’ve seen Tom Curren around a bit, quietly doing his thing. He charges the biggest days here at age 50. How good is that? I like how unassuming he is…not much of a chatter, hangs out on his own…he was the only guy out at huge Pipe a couple of days ago. Slater is here too…but haven’t seen him surf. Then there’s JJ Florence and JOB who dominate Pipe. That’s about it from the Rock.
Back in Bondi we’re looking for a new full time team member in our Aquabumps Gallery, a production manager with some sales skills. If you think you fit this criteria listed here be in contact with Gloria Tong.
M a h a l o : : u g e
All this Curren talk has made me go and watch some of his surfing again. Get on to youtube and watch his heat against Occy at Bells ’86. The good old days of big power turns and flouro wetsuits – absolute classic!!
Curren – Still my hero – the quiet storm (even at Pipe calmness pervades)
sick. on another note, looks like we are finally getting a swell in sydney. could be good late long weekend!
Was there today having a look it was awesome seeing it in full flight.
WOW – Curren
WOW – those waves
WOW – Oahu in January
not jealous at all…….C
great waves. great surfers. great photos.
is there a lot of pro photographers there?
Yeah lots, plenty on the land. Only 2 of us at Pipe tonight. it was big! thought I was gonna drown!
Shot 2 looks like AI…Sick
Uge,
Lot time admirer, love your work. Where are you staying?
Cheers,
JD
Thanks mate.
In a shack near pipe.
Sorry I don’t give out the details for the shack. (get asked a lot)
PLenty of places to stay on the North Shore.
So beautiful. I was just there a month ago, when I was back home visiting for the holidays… thanks for helping me to miss it a bit less through your photos, feels like I’m standing there on the beach with my toes in the sand. Wishing I was eating a spicy ahi bowl at Pupukea Grill right now!