There’s one helluva rip in the middle of Bondi at the moment. It doesn’t look like much, but it’s a conveyor belt on turbo. It does create a beautiful little draining rip bowl, should you be in the right location – but sitting on it ain’t easy.
I love it when all the groms are out – they’re so encouraging and positive to surf with – constantly giving compliments to each other – we could learn a lot from the tykes. They’re so stoked out there.
The swell has really dropped overnight, and it’s now 1-3 foot. It was a pure deluxe glass off at sunrise, which changed around 6:10 am and blew onshore. Cooler day, 21 degrees.
The Vans Pipe Master waiting period kicks off tomorrow – my favourite wave to shoot and watch. I’m loving the selection of wild cards…it’s gonna be wild. 16th Dec looks like a swell.
It’s gifting season; I’ll make it easy for you:
- Aquabumps gift cards
- Books
- In-stock artworks – can order now and pick them up today
- Order anything; we’ll try to get it to you ASAP. Best sellers
- There are only a few surf hats left $50
:: uge