Welcome back to Hawaii…it’s been a year since I was on The Rock and we’ve missed the joint.
Upon arrival its been 4-6 foot and the locals dismissed it as a day for the kiddies. I must be a kiddie.
There is a MONSTER swell arriving this Friday. Surfline has numbers like 23 seconds/42 feet (faces). I hope my shack doesn’t get washed away. But is it big enough for the Eddie? Hope so… we’ve got front row seats.
M a h a l o : : u g e
PS – Some nice hot weather today and tomorrow for Sydney. Hit the beach!
sick! what we wouldn’t give for even half of that kiddies stuff here
John John for the Eddie
oh man, even if we had swell (we don’t) and it wasn’t impossibly crowded with groms & kooks (it is) i’d still be envious.
waves that size in the pics our surf report sites here would be going absolutely spastic.
i repeat: oh man, envious.
WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING HERE IN FRONT OF THE COMPUTER IN SYDNEY. WHY AM I NOT THERE! WHY AM I SHOUTING?!
Peace.
Good point, why are you shouting? Book a ticket.
Just need to sell a Kidney and i’m there.
Pretty sure the near barrel shot at Pipe is a Brazilian pro named Stephan Figueiredo- He takes on 3rd reef set waves at Pipe no problem- I actually just got my first shots submitted to a magazine of him. Kinda crazy I came across you in the cereal isle at Foodland! Will shoot your website over to Stephan-
Good meeting you Ugene
Doug Falter
Crazy huh Dougie.
Nice to meet you too.
Pipe was smoking this morning but now junk huh?
Gonna hit it anyway…laters: uge