It’s a transition day, and we’re in the calm doldrums at midday. 0-1 knots of Westerly, which will kick to the south change, due any minute now; you can feel it coming.
The skies are interesting; it’s either baking sunny or Singapore clouded; regardless, it’s beautiful in the brine.
The swell is very North, which is quite useless at Bondaka. Beaches facing more east or even North will have more fruit.
It appears showers (and small waves) will plague the rest of the week.
The WSL moves to Sunset Beach Oahu, and the forecast shows 30-40 foot faces tomorrow. Wow. I’ve been on the North Shore when this happens, and the waves used to run UNDER our house (built on Jetty Piers) and wash through to our backyard. It was Mental. I was always worried we’d be washed out to sea overnight. The ocean would be so noisy at this size that talking on the phone is hard (can’t hear a thing). The Eddie will not run as bad winds flank this monster swell.
:: uge
Yes first visit to the North Shore years ago in a beachfront house at back door pipe – pitch black – sounded like a freight train coming into my cabin built above the rocks wall – terrifying and zero sleep all night! Exciting in retrospect though