The Bush

I’ve been out to the Mentawais 17 times now on these boats. Why? The surf is amazing. Full stop. For consistency and diversity of waves, I can’t think of another destination that compares. Admittedly, it’s not for every surfer, most waves are breaking on sharp shallow reefs and offer dreamy tubes…but it can get dangerous if you’re not comfortable in hollow fast waves. The reefs here are not like those in the Maldives where you can bounce off them, they take a bite with just a subtle clip.

I’ve finally received my lost bag from Jakarta which had all my clothes and water housings – so now I’ll shoot a few from the brine. Was getting a bit on the nose after wearing the same clothes for 4 days!

I trust you’re enjoying some images from outside of Bondi for 12 days. I hear it’s been getting cold back home.

:: uge