It’s big and getting bigger. It’s windy – howling onshore!
After a five-minute ride, I’ve concluded it’s not a beach day—a write-off, a day inside.
Tomorrow will be triple head high, and winds will be variable, so I am sure some reefs down south will be cooking for the hell-riders.
I hope this hefty swell pounds into the current sandbanks, moving sand, creating more exciting shapes so I don’t have to surf close-outs all weekend – like last.
Enjoy these aerials I’ve taken at the end of summer. I love the above.
:: uge