I booked and paid for this trip three years ago. After many pandemic delays, it was an incredible feeling getting on a plane again, with four boards and cameras to drift amongst the islands of Indonesia – such a treat!
This trip is my annual pilgrimage to the wave mecca – a place where we get to surf proper waves in 25-degree water and few humans. This is my 17th lap (in 20 years) of the archipelago, and I am amazed to be still finding new breaks to surf – there are just so many nooks and crannies here.
The island hasn’t disappointed us so far.
The waves are cranking, and there’s no one around, so I don’t wanna spend my time in my cabin writing! :: uge