C R E A S E D

This south swell seems to be having trouble sorting itself out. It needs a good strong offshore to iron out all creases. Waves are breaking in the 4 foot plus range this morning at Bondi but they were wobbly and random. Very few guys surfing. Bronte had a little something on offer – but it’s all 2-3 out of 10. Was cold too! Think it got down to single digits.

So…all my mates are floating around on a boat that I chartered in the Mentawai Islands whilst I let my leg mend. They even took our brand new Black Hawk III to document the island chain from a totally new angle. Na, not jealous or nuttin’. Waves look perfect. To rub salt into my wounds they hooked up my satellite and beamed back some photos from yesterday (How very nice of them). Here they are…

:: uge