Dang we’ve had a good run. Everyday it just
gets better. Last week was such a good week for surf and light –
scored some cracker shots. Then I wake up this morning to find a
new south ground swell kicking into the bay. Swell lines banked
up to the horizon. Everyone’s asking me where it’s all
coming from? When’s it gonna stop? I dunno…but if you find
a 50 buck note on the floor, don’t ask where it’s coming
from…just run with it.
Perfect offshore westerly winds currently. Perfect
sunny day – not a cloud to be seen. (max 21). Perfect solid 3-4
foot south swell hitting (and getting bigger). Perfect 4 guys out
– what tha. Not so perfect Bondi sand banks making it close out
(standard) – find a beach with better banks & facing south.
Perfect 19 degrees in the water. Perfect excuse to bail work and
bake it on the highway with a car full of boards….
Think there would be some perfectly sore heads
around town today (Sorry neighbors for the noise). Thanks to all
those crew that helped me out yesterday by drinking half a pellet
of Coopers at the Aquabumps Gallery/nightclub (gotta love that Coopers
– insert next delivery here). The stale grog fumes from the gallery
are killing me as I write this. Have a great week…today is the
pick of the days. Smaller tomoz. Later, uge
