North Shore, nice and tight

Gums

Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning machine, a rip monster that holds you in a bad spot for several sets. If you miscalculate your swim out to Pipe on a big day you end up at Gums…thinking, what on earth did I do to deserve this thrashing. Very humbling with hundreds of people on the beach watching.

Yesterday I learned that on a specific set of conditions – Gums pumps. Get a really West swell and some decent sand banks and you’ve got a reverse Snapper Rocks. Long winding lefts made their way down towards the beach park. It wasn’t big – say 3 foot with the odd 6 footer. But oh man it was fun. 90% of waves barrel, water was crystal clear blue and plenty of waves. A session to remember. Just wish I took more photos (Sorry had to surf it). A local (Jack Johnson – who rips by the way) told me that on a epic day it breaks all the way down to Gas Chambers (that’s about 400 metres away). Love to see that.

Looks like you have waves back home also…nice. Back soon…

::uge

Navigating the fizz

Sandy's

Shacked

The boys have moved out. Found something closer to the water.

Ray Collins the master of the empty wave @RayCollinsPhoto

The left's coming down from Gums

From where you'd rather be...

Rockies right...on a small day, still really fun

Shark's Cove

Hawaiians love the beach. They camp out all day long there.

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