Away
I know, I know, it’s been a while between posts. I’ve been on the move and migrated north to the warm oceans of Indonesia. They’ve had a great run of swell up here for the early season, and it’s been very well documented on socials.
We’re a few days into our journey through the islands, living aboard and hunting uncrowded waves. It must be over 20 years since I began this annual pilgrimage, and I never tire of it. I still see new parts of the islands and new breaks. I’ve got some shredders on board and we’ve had endless fun sized Ments.
I hear it’s been massive back home, much larger than here (and cold but not raining). Take it easy,
:: uge
Brr.
Oh wow, it was a cold morning (and still is). The wind chill was bringing it right down. As we approach winter solstice, the sun rises very late, I’m waiting around tapping my foot for most of the morning. Waves are bigger but not better. No one surfing Bondi says it all. Showers are due […]
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Steep change
It’s gone from a glorious winter sunny morning to cold and overcast. The wind has arrived and is letting rip in Sydney, circa 25-30 knots. Forecasts reveal a steep increase in swell, from 1ft to 8ft overnight. That is quite exciting. Everyone loves a big tanking swell. I saw heaps of whales splashing around just […]
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Amateur hour
It was a comedy of errors that made me miss a glorious Bondi sunrise today. I felt like a fumbling amateur getting to the beach 10-15mins late. Considering I’ve only done this approximately 6,000 times, you’d think I’d have this sunrise shooting thing on lock! Hahah. Sorry, tomorrow I’ll be up at 5 am, tripod […]
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Longevity
The swell just keeps giving, day in and day out. Today, there are high waves under partly cloudy skies. Light winds currently before a decent chunk of rain. A top of 18 degrees, cooler and typical of this time of year. Aquabumps is 25 years old this year and we’re in the process of rebranding, […]
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Red Light
After a very dark, cloudy morning, at around 7 a.m., we were blasted with red light rays – it was spectacular and unexpected. Light is everything, freshening up my regular subject – Bondi. Coincentently, the waves were cooking this morning. Multiple peaks hosted 3-4 footers at sunrise. Everyone was on for hump day, scores of […]
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24hours
It’s incredible what a difference 24 hours makes in the ocean. Yesterday, it was unsurfable and thundering into the bay, bouncing off the back walls. Today, it’s completely dropped off and only 3 foot – how good! Nice clean offshores grooming the multiple Bondi peaks. Large crowds up early, tackling the cooler mornings. It will […]
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Enormous
It’s huge. I saw three surfers paddle out at North Bondi, weaving in between sets, to try to score a wave at South Bondi without success. There’s just so much going on out there, water moving everywhere you’d need a ski to fling you, I reckon. Wait for it to calm down. How big? Well, […]
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Grey-Blues
It’s a very grey, dark, 1ft Bondi Friday—SO—I’ve chosen to show you some pics from the wave pool archives I shot a couple of weeks ago. I love that pool. It’s a fun machine, good times for everyone—kids, shredders, wives…hail rain or onshore, it’s on. Showers are coming today in Bondi, I am guessing around […]
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Crunchie
It’s smaller, sunny, and crunchie. A shallow South Bondi was on the “mini tube” setting for tiny humans. The froth levels were high, as 25-35 kilo tykes dominated. Been outside, nice, isn’t it? Sydney at its best. It could hit 24 degrees today before going bad with rain, rain, rain and a whopping swell on […]
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Little Monsters
The swell has slipped a few gears, and the little tykes dominated the south peak. The low tides made it tricky, but the groms tucked in. It’s only 2-3 feet and clean at sunrise. It was a cold morning, with only 8 degrees on the mercury. The wind was particularly brutal, but the brine was […]
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Turbo
It’s pretty frustrating out there on the lower tides. Basically, you paddle into a set and pray it stays open for a bit before exploding on the shallow banks. It’s a board breaker and claimed Glynnie’s board before sunrise. It’s a shame, as it has all the ingredients of a cooking day: sun, swell, and […]
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Pounding
I copped a bit of a pounding at South Bondi earlier this morning. I guess I underestimated the sets as, at first glance, it looked reasonable. It’s very shallow, with a 5 am low tide and a lot of sand gathered at the South. Trying to slip under sets with a large camera and nowhere […]
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