Jack.
Oh, Jack. The Olympic surfing finals just ended at Teahuppo, and what a final it was—Australia vs. France/Tahiti—Jack Robinson on Kauli Vaast. I’ll let you watch the replays to find out who wins. Mother nature can be so cruel!
It was a glorious morning in Bondi. Sunshine galore and 2-3 foot chuggers kept a big morning crowd busy. It’s pretty fat and chubby on the morning higher tides.
:: uge
Leftovers
After eating at 100 buffets and 25 flights, I’ve come home to find the remnants of a giant winter swell. The red rocks of South Bondi are towering out of the sand, telling me the waves have been crazy big, hitting the back walls. The new sand bank setup is fantastic, with multiple peaks and […]
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Long Service Leave
You may have noticed I’m celebrating another hot lap around the sun with multiple indulgent tropical trips this year. (Why not aye) I’m on another island paradise in Indonesia, where the water is warm, the waterfalls are spectacular, the hospitality is sublime, and the waves are consistent. We’re still in peak surfing season in Indo, […]
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Tardy
Sorry about the late post; I’d like to say I’ve been soaking up the day’s sunshine and small, clean waves! Nah, that’s next week. What a beautiful winter’s day—sunshine galore and neat little two-footers to keep you entertained. We’ve got some north winds, which bring the warmer temps. Tomorrow will be an incredible 22 before […]
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Sublime Brine
It’s a tad cooler than the water in the Maldives; it was very invigorating this morning! I’m awake now. Another glorious winter’s morning. Small two-footers were peeling left of a groomed central bank. Really fun for the higher volume surf vehicles. Loving the clear skies…hope it continues. :: uge
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Reappear
Hello! I know you were probably opening today’s post thinking what country now? Home it is – Bondi in peak winter. This cold winter morning feels extra cryogenic after five weeks of tropical 30-plus weather! Crispy offshores, 2-3 footers and glorious clear skies have welcomed us home. The middle of the bay bank looked the […]
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Amanpulo
“Aman” means “peace” in Sanskrit, and “Pulo” means “island” in Filipino /Tagalog – a perfect description of this heavenly island in the Palawan Province of the Philippines. Amanpulo, a world away from the hustle and bustle of Manila, south of the capital, is one of the planet’s most exquisite beach paradise islands. The sea’s colour is […]
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Como Cocoa
Chapter 3: We’ve switched islands to the tiny Como Cocoa, a stone’s throw from one of Maldives’ surfing jewels, Kandooma. Cocoa is an island so small that you can kick a football across the middle of it…or a lilo circumnavigational will take you around half an hour. At low tide, a 500-metre sand spit emerges […]
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Riptides
In the Maldives, the working week is Sunday to Thursday, and Friday & Saturday is the weekend! The waves are still ripable here on Kandooma, and there is not much over head high (perfect for the tykes). Their surf season is May to September, which is good as it is the opposite of the general […]
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Kandooma
Welcome back to the Maldives, chapter 2 of my overseas winter odyssey, where I am hunting warm water, waves, and idyllic beaches. After surfing left in the Mentawais for two weeks, it’s time to go right on one of the Maldivian jewels—Kandooma. I’ve been to the Maldives six times and have never scored decent waves […]
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Ombak Kecil
It’s rare for the ocean to go quiet here, especially in June (peak season), but it happens. Even when the waves go to sleep, you can still find these freak spots that draw everything from the ocean and still break over head high. The problem is that every camp, dug out, and charter joins the […]
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The Boogeyman
Strangely, ‘The Boogeyman’ that monster who supposedly lives in children’s bedrooms, could have begun life as a pirate…a pirate from Indonesia! The Bugis are Indonesian people from Sulawesi who were bandits of the sea, feared by many along the spice routes in the 17th-19th centuries. So when you hear “Beware of The Boogeyman”, they could […]
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Badais, Tribes and Tides
The Indonesian archipelago of Mentawais (‘Ments’) consists of 70 islands, but four larger islands dominate the landscape. The wave-rich area lines the outside of Sumatra and cops the full brunt of swells from the south. June, July, and August are typically peak seasons with the biggest waves of the year, but so far, we’ve only […]
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