Re-entry
I’m back in Bondi. It was weird being on the beach without a herd of water buffalo trampling past or no horses riding into the sunset. Nobody was carrying machetes, only mobile phones!
‘Twas a beautiful Bondi morning. The sunshine is on max, whilst the head-high waves looked a little straight. A gentle NW wind keeps things neat, whilst 19-degree water has a chill (compared to Indonesia).
My old pal, Matty Griggs (ex-coach of Steph and Mick Fanning), with Taylor Knox (ex-CT superstar), is hosting a Crescent Head Surf and Meditation Experience on Thursday, November 2nd- 6th, 2023. Want in? 10% off right now. More info
:: uge
Sempurna
Sempurna = perfection Like Sydney, we’ve been struck with a large swell in Indonesia – a late-season spike. Rather than watch my kids try to paddle out in 8-10 foot slabs, we opted for a peaceful mountain day at a spectacular waterfall. It’s like going back in time in Sumba, where the people live in […]
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Raw Paradise
I’ve been to some pretty idyllic places, but our current location ranks highly, Sumba. It’s a raw, semi-primitive island in Indonesia with plenty of waves, dreamy white sandy beaches and unique local culture. It’s the dry season here, so we’re scoring endless 36-degree clear skies and sublime water temps. There have been waves daily, especially for […]
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Amanwana
There are 18,000 islands in Indonesia, and I’m doing my best to see them all. After a few nights on the “Peaceful Hill” (Amankila), we’ve relocated to a much more remote, quieter island called Moyo in Sumbawa, bobbing in the Flores Sea. They call this tented eco-resort the “Peaceful Forest” (or Amanwana). The crystal blue […]
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Amankila
Like most Australians, Bali has been embedded in my vacation DNA since I was young. I fondly remember riding to Ulu’s via scrambler through the dense jungle on a tiny trail, boards underarm before the warungs. Yes, it’s changed so much in the decades I’ve been visiting (even just in the past 5 years) – […]
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Hottie
It’s currently 28 degrees and about to skyrocket to 36. The weather people have now declared an official El Niño year with dry and hot conditions to follow. The beach has been filling up since 5:30 am this morning, and I’m not just talking Bondi – all the beaches around here at mega-activity. The water […]
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It’s on!
The warm weather draws everyone to Bondi early. Looking around at 6 a.m. and seeing so much life on the beach at dawn was incredible. Rigs out, selfies firing, sunscreen wafting, ice baths overflowing, training groups sweating and all the dogs of Sydney on show down the prom. Summer’s come early! 34 degrees today. The […]
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Bondi is back!
I have to admit, with the warmer temps forecasted, I escaped the city to chill on quiet country beaches over the weekend. I heard it was crazy busy around here. Bondi had plenty of warmth, sun and waves this morning. Surprisingly, it was shoulder to head high on sets under an offshore regime (NW). Northwest […]
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Life’s a Beach
It’s currently 24 degrees and heading to 26 degrees. Bondi is filling up as many call an early mark and hit the beach. It’s going to be a busy sunset! Gentle NE winds are tickling the bay as we still have chest-high waves. Swell will continue to drop, but the temps will continue to rise […]
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Straight lines
Today has a similar theme to the rest of the week – smokey and straight. We have so much swell in town; it’s relentless, but there’s just nowhere handling it well around here. I barely saw anyone catch a non-close-out all morning. Uber clean conditions, gentle winds and ubiquitous sunshine. Swell will start to taper […]
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Bigger Wednesday
It’s bigger today, but debatable if it’s better. I browsed all the beaches in the neighbourhood, and it just seemed like closeouts everywhere. Yeah, it’s well over head high and some double head high sets…plenty of water moving…but little joy, I thought. At sunrise, this was my verdict anyway. The surf community were up early […]
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HAze
The fireys are madly back burning in preparation for this weekend’s hot weather. Sydney’s choked up with smoke right now. Hopefully, we’ll have a safe summer. There are waves from this south swell – but not many good ones. Expect to find the odd head high set under optimal light offshores (3 knots of west). […]
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Back Burn
There’s smoke in the air, reminiscent of the bushfires two years ago. Hazard reduction burns must be happening west of Bondi – hopefully making our summer safe as they forecast a dry one. This weekend is going to be 28 & 30! Yes, hot. There are waves! (head high) But they’re not breaking great. Frustratingly, […]
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