There’s a heap of chunk to the bump today. It’s wild. Up here in Byron there’s only a select few breaks that can handle such large swells (that also have protection from the howling winds).
Since last night my phone has been lighting up with msgs from frothing man grommets, wondering where to surf in the morning. Car parks were full; cameras were out – it’s on. It’s quite exciting!
Lennox looked to have the best waves, but oh man, that sweep is not for the faint-hearted. Forget paddling; you’ll get nowhere – hot laps on the walkway is the go. I saw some long walls break from out the back, you could get a 400-500 metre ride, but it’s pretty solid (4-6ft with bombs+) – so I’d advise only experienced hellmen until this swell settles.
Bondi looks wild and rainy.
Until our next episode from the North Coast – be safe in the ocean. When in doubt, don’t go out.
:: uge
